Kicking off our 2013 Italy Tour in Bassano del Grappa and Marostica

16^th to 23^rd of July 2013 

For those who have ever had a party at the Costa house, it is known that as soon as the coffee pot whistles, dad simultaneously carries out his well-known Grappa. I am sure that the next morning many wake up with the feeling of having had a good evening or a sense of regret, with a persistent question that simultaneously throbs with a headache - where o where does this famous (or infamous as some friends might feel) Grappa originate from?

At the foot of Mount Grappa in the Veneto region of Italy, lies a town called Bassano del Grappa where Grappa is distilled and where my dad’s family live. He was born in a little village called Marostica just a stone’s throw away.

Before immigrating to South Africa, he happily passed many early childhood days between the two towns, and so our 2013 Italy trip began, also hopping and skipping between Bassano del Grappa and Marostica, visiting various family members and sneaking in a little sight-seeing here and there.

After landing safely in Venice, hiring a car and with a few turns here and there, we found our orientation and the right road to Marostica. We arrived over lunch time and since it is taboo in Italy to arrive at someone’s house over lunchtime, we decided to have our first Italian cappuccino in the piazza before heading to our cousins Anna and Roberto, where we would be staying.

Pa enjoying his first cappuccino in Marostica with Castello Superiore in the background on top of the hill

Marostica

Marostica has a very unique piazza in that it has a large chessboard laid out in pastel coloured stone squares. The old town is protected by two castles, the lower castle positioned in the piazza and the upper castle, Castello Superiore, dominating from atop a hill overlooking the town.

The two castles are connected by a wall which encircles the old town. A secret tunnel also connects the two castles and if you wander into the lower castle in the piazza and take a look down the well, you’ll unknowingly be looking at the door of this secret tunnel.

As legend goes, two lords were wooing the princess’s hand in marriage. The king decided that the two men, instead of having a duel, would partake in a chess match and whoever won, would also win the princess’s hand in marriage. Every second year, the town hosts a human chess match which they say is quite spectacular to watch. As two components are strategically manoeuvring their chess pieces on a chessboard, real life horses, knights, bishops and all other chess pieces are simultaneously moving across the piazza.

  

The lower and upper castles of Marostica

Just behind the piazza in Marostica, we discovered a little road that lead up a short hill and right at the top of a flight of stairs (or two) we found a lovely church and monastery.

 

A hidden gem tucked away behind the piazza of Marostica

 

Bassano del Grappa

Bassano del Grappa is richly steeped in history spanning from medieval times to a town baring the scars of World War II. One can still clearly see signs of this vast history, even if your knowledge of history is limited, like mine.

I’ve always thought that the best way to explore a new environment or town is by foot or bicycle as it allows one to orientate themselves and see the small details that you otherwise might miss. Although Bassano del Grappa is not a new environment to me, it has been a few years since I was last there and so therefore after lunch each day, I jumped onto Anna’s bicycle and while everyone had a little rest, I cycled around Bassano del Grappa and its surrounds. An advantage of cycling around during lunchtime is that you can enjoy the town in peace and quiet, with no hustle and bustle, unlike on market day.

 

Scenes from market day in Bassano del Grappa

 

The old town of Bassano is encircled by an ancient wall that once protected its inhabitants from outside threats. The main piazza boasts a beautiful church, ancient clock tower, prominent statues and a beautiful fountain that dominates the centre of the piazza. One can spend quite a while circling the piazza, looking at the various buildings that leaves one gasping with a sense of amazement at the intricate detail that decorates the various monuments.

 

A patchwork of snapshots taken in the piazza of Basanno del Grappa

Bassano del Grappa is not only well known for its Grappa but also for the picturesque view of Ponte Vecchio stretching across the Brenta River, connecting the two parts of the town.

  

Ponte Vecchio stretching across the Brenta River with Mount Grappa in the background

 

As the town is situated in the north of Italy and the region of Veneto closely borders Germany and Austria, it played a prominent role, like many towns in the Alps, in World War II. Many soldiers called i Alpini marched across this bridge and every year the town hosts a festival in honour of these soldiers who fought in the war.

 

Ponte Vecchio

 

If one looks closely at the walls of the houses next to the bridge, you will be able to see bullet holes left from attacks on the town during the war.

Another memorial from World War II can be found on an outer street of the town. Trees, in the shape of a soldier’s helmet line a hill overlooking the Dolomites. On the trunk of each tree is a plaque with a name of a soldier who fought for the liberation of Italy from dictatorship and the rule of Mussolini. For soldiers whose names were not known, a plaque with a cross and the words, Milite Ignoto (unknown soldier) are displayed.

 

Scars from World War II are clearly visible in Bassano del Grappa

Although the gloom of World War II may linger about this town, it has much beauty to offer.

Every lunch time the Brenta River turns into a little beach where people can come to catch a tan (very important in Italy), relax and refresh themselves in the cool waters. Temperatures in Bassano del Grappa can easily reach 40°C!

Cooling off in the freshness of the Brenta River

If one wants to discover the antiquity of the rich and famous of days gone by, there are many villas scattered in and around Bassano del Grappa to be discovered. One villa I went to go look at on my lunch time cycle escapade was Villa Bianchi Michiel Angarano proudly boasting neatly cultivated vineyards. 

Villa Bianchi Michiel Angarano

 On another one of my cycling escapades I went to explore the area of San Lorenzo and cycled along the Brenta River on a peaceful road that curved through small farms. Along the way I stopped at a shrine for the Madonna perched on the bank of a canal. I just could not resist lying on my stomach at the bottom of the bank and stretching out my arms so that I could splash myself with the cool water. Later I learnt that they flow water from the Brenta into canals in the process of producing hydro-electricity.

As I cycled further along I passed the town of San Lorenzo and continued following the course of the river until I stumbled upon a small chapel at the curve of the road. It seemed so solitary but enhanced the feeling of calm and tranquillity one felt cycling along this rural road.

 

Cycle through San Lorenzo

Asolo

One afternoon we took a little break-away and went to visit Asolo. A small town about 30 minutes from Bassano del Grappa. As you approach Asolo, you will notice a castle set atop of a hill. Deceivingly it is actually built upon a rock, with a small town spread out around it.

  

Approaching Asolo one can distinctly see the castle on top of the hill

It is a small, quiet town but very pretty and it is always a pleasure to wonder the streets of Asolo and admire the ancient houses and villas, fountains and views from the hilltop.

Asolo

The Dolomites
 

The Dolomites

 

One Sunday, we departed with Roberto and Anna and spent a day in the cool mountains towering over Bassano del Grappa. On the weekends many people decide to escape the heat of the towns at the base of the mountains and retreat into the cooler towns situated in the heart of the mountains. This does result in a lot of traffic and congestion on the roads and in the towns, but never-the-less, it was worth it in order to admire the beauty the Dolomite Mountains have to offer.

Panoramic views from atop the hill by Cesuna. Note the elderly man wearing the typical military hat of i alpini

We passed Asiago, a beautiful and popular ski resort. In summer they have lovely flea markets selling antiques. We climbed further up into the mountains to Cesuna where we were going to have lunch at an agri-turismo set upon a hill. Unfortunately they were fully booked and we settled on a smaller but quaint agri-turismo a little further down the mountain. We enjoyed a lovely lunch on a deck overlooking the towering mountains where two falcons were effortlessly soaring in the sky, the cultivated green pastures in the valley below and the towns tucked away in the folds of the mountains.

 

Lunch in the Dolomites

After lunch we drove to Lago Lavarone which is situated in the region of Trentino-Alto Adige. By now we had climbed about 2 000m above sea-level and it was unbelievably much cooler, making Bassano del Grappa seem like a hot frying pan. We were welcomed to Lago Lavarone by rain but that did not discourage us from enjoying an ice-cream by this picturesque lakeside resort. 

 

Ice-cream by Lago Lavarone

Caribolla

  

View from Roberto’s farm in Caribolla

Roberto has a little farm in Caribolla, a rural area just behind the hills overlooking Marostica in a valley. One late afternoon we took a drive, winding up the mountain pass, as he had heard that wolves or wild dogs had attacked his goats.

It was a tragic and sad arrival at his farm as his niece who was staying there and who had discovered the goats, burst into tears. However, with a little consoling and a dose of the Italians ‘life-is-beautiful’ antidote, we ended the evening having a sun downer on top of the hill overlooking the rusty red roofed houses of the rural towns of Veneto spread out across the vast plain, eating freshly picked figs, with the chickens clucking about our feet and a horse called Cirro.

A little farm living in Caribolla

As we enjoyed the simple pleasures in life, I could not complain, life is beautiful in Italy.

Salute!