Ferie Agosto in Monterosso

14^th to 17^th of August 2013

With the arrival of Ferie Agosto, Monterosso exploded into a busy but eventful few days. The 16^th of August is an official holiday throughout Italy and many people take leave from work around these days. It is a time when many festas take place; not that Italians need a reason to hold a festa.

 La Madonna da Saviore

 

On the 14^th of August Monterosso celebrates La Madonna da Saviore.

 

Sanctuary of N. S. di Soviore

 

Traditionally, the residents would follow the pilgrimage from St.John the Baptist in Monterosso, up the mountain and through the forest to Soviore. The procession would be led by children carrying flowers to place at the alter of the church.

Views from Soviore, a monastery on top of the mountain that overlooks Monterosso. In the distance one can see Punta Mesco. The trees on top of the mountain gives one an impression that the mountain is the jawline of a stubble faced giant.

 

Although the pilgrim route is not followed today and the procession begins at the entrance to the monastery, the faith of the day is not lost to the townspeople.  Little children all dressed in white or adorned in the traditionally black and red cloaks, carry bunches of flowers and still lead the procession into the church. The procession is followed by the priest and monks, delegated individuals to carry the large crosses, the Monterosso band and lastly, the townspeople.

 

Procession that is lead into La Madonna da Soviore

 

Once inside the church the children place the flowers on the alter and sing the traditional song of Madonna da Soviore. One could describe it as the anthem of Monterosso as it is a shame if you are a local and do not know the words.

Children sing the traditional song of Madonna da Soviore before mass starts

After mass the monastery grounds erupt into a lively market that takes place under the large trees providing shade and shelter from the sun. One can grab a refreshment and a sandwich filled with roasted pork, oozing with a condiment of roasted onions, and socialise with your friends. From other stalls you can sample and purchase cheeses and cold meats. Children can buy a toy and sweets or my personal favourite, crocante. Crocante can be peanuts, hazelnuts or almonds, smothered in a sugary caramel crunchy layer of sweetness, very similar to peanut brittle in South Africa.

After the formal ceremonies, one can enjoy the market. Traditional strings of hazelnuts can be purchased among other delights.

Later that evening the festivities continued with a grand firework display in the bay by the harbour in Monterosso. I was completely mesmerised as the colours exploded in the sky, came shooting out from the sea or spiralled towards you like dragons breathing fire.

The fireworks seemed like a galaxy that was exploding

Dinner at the Campi Baichettu

The night before the actual day of Ferie Agosto, we joined Renso and his family and friends for a dinner they host each year on the bowling grounds.

A Ferie Agosto dinner at the Monterosso bowling club

It was an entertaining and social evening most enjoyed by all. We ate too much, we drank too much and we celebrated too much. We had antipasti of a selection of cold meats, marinated brinjals, stuffed vegetables, followed by seafood salad and accompanied by pan frit (which is a deep fried doughy bun, a lighter version of South Africa’s vetkoek).

As in true Italian style, a festa is never complete until a few people gather round, if you lucky, someone hauls out their guitar, and the singing of old classic songs begins. The song I recorded is Trilli Trilli, a Genovese old classic.

 

 

Madonna Bianca in Portovenere

On the 17^th of August Portovenere held a festival for Madonna Bianca. With our cousins Anna and Roberto from Bassano, who came to visit us in Monterosso, we decided to take the boat to Portovenere and partake in the festival.

 

Leaving Monterosso behind as we sailed out of the harbour

 

The boat trip allowed us to sail past each of the five lands which are part of the Cinque Terre. Each village has its own unique characteristic and is worth exploring.

Vernazza with its church built upon the beach is the first village after Monterosso

For those feeling energetic, you can hike the Cinque Terre. The hike takes about 5 hours but you will need a full day to allow yourself to linger in the villages as you pass them along the route. You will need to purchase a permit for this hike and ticket offices can be found as you enter and exit each town. A ticket, which includes your permit for the hike and a return train fare to your village where you are staying, costs 10€.

Corniglia set upon the hill, follows after Vernazza

A more relaxed alternative is to indulge in a boat trip. A daily ticket which costs 20€ will allow you to hop-on and hop-off at each village (excluding Corniglia) and also take you to Portovenere, as well as your return to the village where you are staying.

Manarola, where they have to lower their boats into the water from above using a pulley system, is the fourth village from Monterosso

The boat trip also allows you to admire the beautiful landscape, rock formations and the even tinier towns or homesteads that dot the coastline. Do not miss the rocky outcrop on which a cross has been placed for the ships that have struck it and sunk in the waters.

Riomaggiore set within a crevice, is the fifth village from Monterosso or the first village if you are travelling from Portovenere

Portovenere is a town situated in the Gulf of the Poets, not far from the port town La Spezia which is home to a naval base. It is called the Gulf of the Poets as poets such as Byron used to visit this beautiful village along the Mediterranean coast for inspiration.

Portovenere is protected by a castle based on the top of the hill around which the town was built. However, what always takes my breath away about this town is the view of the church built on the rock protruding out to sea as you sail towards it.

As we approached Portovenere they had placed candles all around the church and the rock whereupon it is built. It was beautiful to see and one could feel the genuine sentiment of the townspeople in celebrating Madonna Bianca.

 

The burning candles around the church at Portovenere was a beautiful site as we approached the town

 

They had also placed candles all along the path leading up to the church and as we entered the harbour, for those who still had breath left, it was definitely, completely taken away.

View of the church lit up by candles when entering the harbour

Portovenere has a narrow main road that runs along the harbour to the church where all the bars and restaurants are situated. I must admit, the town was overflowing with people. We struggled to find a seat at a restaurant and later, eventually gave up standing in queue to buy an ice-cream.

We did manage to find a spot at a bar where we could have a bite to eat and something to drink while we watched the procession for Madonna Bianca go past, on their path to the church where a mass would be held.

 

The procession in Portovenere for Madonna Bianca

 

All too soon, our boat was departing and we had to hop on and return home. Although our participation in this festival was brief, it was never-the-less still lovely to experience the tradition of Madonna Bianca in Portovenere.