I present to you, Monterosso al Mare

25^th of July to 6^th of August 2013

Finding myself feeling not quite a local but having the honour of not being a complete tourist visiting Monterosso, I get to enjoy this beautiful and lively seaside fishing village from all angles. Monterosso al Mare is one of the five lands delicately placed along the Ligurian coast of Italy, well known as the Cinque Terre.

Monterosso is the first village of the Cinque Terre if you arrive from Genoa. In the distance, positioned along the coast, you will see Vernazza, Corniglia, Manarola and Riomaggiore.

I must be honest though, my first two weeks in Monterosso included much rest and relaxation, but what better place than here to kick off your shoes and put your feet up, change your work clothes for a bikini, catch a tan and indulge in the Mediterranean flavours of summer.

Monterosso al Mare in the province of Liguria, Italy

When my grandfather was a little boy, the only means of transport to reach Monterosso was by boat. Thereafter, with the extension of rail and road, the village became more accessible to the outside world. Our mode of transport to reach Monterosso was by road and if one travels by road to the village you will realise how loosely the term ‘accessible’ is used. To reach Monterosso by road we had to exit the autostrada by Carrodano and twist and turn through the mountains covered with pine trees and forest, past Levanto and smaller villages tucked away in the mountains, with the distant view of the sea behind the mountains teasing us.

Reaching Monterosso by road with the first views of the village

After about 30 minute drive we broke-through the mountain passes and reached the beautiful village by the sea which would be home for a few weeks. However, first we had 144 steps to climb to reach our family home.

The infamous 144 stairs to reach our family home

If the walls of the town could talk they would be able to enthral us with tales from medieval times to days gone by to entertaining stories from the present.

Monterosso’s history reaches far back to medieval times when a castle was established on top of a hill to defend its walls against other ruling regions of Italy. Monterosso, translated into English means Red Mountain. I have heard a story that the town received its name from the time when a lord, presumably with red hair,  lived in the castle.  Another story I have heard is that the village received its name from the way the vineyards on the hills surrounding the village glow a reddish colour when the sun sets.

Parts of the medieval castle can still be seen if one explores the surrounds of the Cappuccini Monastry

Barba Rosso is long gone but parts of the medieval castle walls and towers can still be explored. One will need to follow the paths that lead up to the Cappuccini Monastery and St. Francesco church set upon the hill. It will be a little tiring, especially in the heat of summer but I can guarantee you that it will be worth the views.

Cappuccini Monastry and St. Francesco

The mountain on which the Cappuccini Monastry rests actually separates Monterosso from Fegina. Tourists may think that these two parts make up the entire town of Monterosso. However, locals distinctly know the difference and refer to each part in their own entity. Monterosso is the historically centre.

Views from one of the footpaths leading across the mountain from Monterosso to Fegina

As the town grew, it extended across the mountain and slowly Fegina was established, separated from Monterosso by a tunnel or footpaths leading around the mountain offering picturesque views.

A more modern Fegina offering a vibrant promenade to walk along

On one of the footpaths around the mountain stop and admire the great statue of Saint Francis of Assisi and the wolf set against the backdrop of the clear blue Mediterranean Sea.

Standing by the statue of Saint Francis of Assisi one will have views of Monterosso and Fegina with Punta Mesco in the background

Moving into the historic centre, the quietness of the mountain erupts into a lively town in summer where skimpily dressed tourists share the streets with the locals. The village has a host of cafés and restaurants where you can grab a quick morning cappuccino and brioche or a mouth-watering seafood risotto for dinner. Ladies can do a little shopping in the various boutiques while the gentlemen sample some of the local specialities been sold, such as Limoncello and pesto.

Walking the streets of Monterosso may seem, as one friend once described it, as walking in a classic Italian movie.

Not to be missed is an ice-cream at the gellateria. Another local flavour not to be missed from this region is focaccia. Pop in at a focacciare and let your eyes feast on the various types. Focaccia with pesto, olives, tomatoes, cheese anchovies, onions or potatoes, the possibilities are endless and all so tasty.

If you are staying in Monterosso for a while one can always do their weekly shopping at the market that comes to town every Thursday. Just leave enough room in your fridge to store your purchases of cheeses, cold meats and fresh fruit and vegetables. Once again, for the ladies, you can indulge in some clothes shopping; you are in fashionable Italy after all.

Street scenes in Monterosso

You will also find the main church in Piazza Matteoti with a façade adorned in the typical white and black stripped marble. Alongside the church you will find a smaller church called the church of the dead. If you poke your head into this church don’t be frightened by the statues of skeleton protruding from the walls. However, both churches are worth taking a glimpse into.

Monterosso has four churches scattered within the town

As I confessed earlier, my days at Monterosso consisted of much rest and relaxation, maybe even too much, leading me into the evil arms of laziness. My normal day in the village began with a cup of coffee and a brunch of focaccia enjoyed around the kitchen table. As this summer was scorching hot I hid in the house for the morning (or what was left of it since I woke up so late) and spring cleaned, did a little gardening in the weed infested flower beds on our veranda, or we wondered the streets, stopping for a chat or a cappuccino at a café.

Morning scenes in Monterosso

After lunch it was definitely beach time to soak up the sun, read novels I have being wanting to for so long, swim in the cool water and simply watch the world go by.

The beaches at Monterosso and around the harbour

Monterosso has the most private and free beaches within the Cinque Terre and you are spoilt for choice.

Beaches along the promenade in Fegina offering bars to indulge in a sundowner

Beaches are scattered along the coastline, starting just below the hotel Porto Rocco all the way to beyond il Gigante where you will find more tranquillity, although the beach might be a little more rockier.

Tranquillity can be found on the rockier beaches beyond il Gigante

The beaches in Monterosso offer much activity and entertainment. As the water is calm one can grab a lilo and float in the bay, or swim lengths out to sea as if one was in a swimming pool. Maybe rent a paddle boat or canoe and explore the rocky coastline as there are shallow caves hidden in the cliffs plunging into the sea.

One day we enjoyed a lovely beach day with ma’s friend, Loriana and her granddaughter, Adele at the beach, il Gigante, building sand castles and splashing in the water.

For those enjoying the rest and relaxation far too much, you can watch the fishing boats rowing into shore or out to sea, the local youngsters playing volleyball along the shore or playing cards on the beach, or simple enjoy the eye candy Monterosso has to offer.

On another day we enjoyed a quick lunch and refreshing beer with Anna and Roberto at il Gigante

Don’t forget to watch out for the man selling coconut pieces for 1€ on the beach. Every day without fail, he comes to the beach just after 17h00, chanting, ‘Coco! Coco bello coco!’ Very hard to resist and as a treat we did indulge. Munching on our exotic piece of coconut, we sat on the beach in our little paradise taking in the last sights and sounds of a day on the beach as the shadow of the hill started to creep across the beach.

A lunchtime picnic on the beach in Monterosso

For days when you are feeling more active or simple wanting a break from lying on the beach, it is nice to explore the various footpaths around the village offering breath-taking views. There are various hiking trails in the mountains surrounding Monterosso but as yet, enjoying the rest and relaxation far too much, I left the challenge for another day.

A walk leading to the start of the Cinque Terre hike, turning left and following the edge of the village before descending into town. Walks are usually accompanied by lizards scurrying across the path in front of you.

A delightful alternative is to take an easy stroll along the promenade towards Fegina which is always a pleasure as you will find various streets musicians performing. Each day, at the same hour and at the same place, you will find the same street musician playing beautiful melodies to compliment the allure of the village. Many of my walks were accompanied by gentle classical guitar music, the calm notes of a flute, the melodious piano or even energetic gypsy music performed by a band called The Sailing Tomatoes.

When the sun starts to set behind Punta Mesco and the shadow of the mountain starts to fall over the beach, you know it is time to head home for dinner, to refresh and make oneself pretty for the night out. After all, my nonno always told me, ‘Camilla, you must go down to the piazza and smile at the boys’.

In the early evening the fishing boats return from a day out at sea

However, first we had an al fresco dinner to enjoy with our neighbours Renso and Luciana on the veranda, overlooking the village. On some nights when we did not have dinner with the neighbours I put all my Italian cooking lessons with nonno to the test and became our family’s chef. It was most enjoyable to cook with fresh ingredients from Renso’s garden and the flavours of Italy.

Enjoying good food, wine and company at home with our neighbours

One evening we had supper on the beach at il Gigante with ma’s friend Loriana and her family. I recommend anyone who visits Monterosso to spend one evening at sunset on the beach as it is a beautiful experience.

Sunset at il Gigante

The beach is calm and the mountains are ornamented in soft shades of purple and blue from the setting sun. The seagulls, sensing the tranquillity, come to rest on the rocks and water, drifting along with the boats out at sea. The sight and sensation of a sunset picnic on the beach will linger with you and your memory of that moment will always be one of beauty and tranquillity.

Sunset dinner on the beach at il Gigante, not complete unless someone gets dunked in the water

The nights in Monterosso in summer always offer some sort of activity or entertainment. With an ice-cream in hand, we strolled through town and followed the sound of the live entertainment. In the harbour there is a stage set against the rock of the mountain overlooking the little bay and concerts are usually performed here.

The harbour in Monterosso at sunset. Summer concerts are held on the harbour 

Some delights we got to enjoy this summer included Dario Lombardi e il Blues Gang performing on the harbour, two sopranos, accompanied by a pianist singing opera under the rectory of the church in the piazza, theatrical performances and poetry recitals, a band performing classic dance numbers like ABBA, an electrifying drum session and a DJ pumping dance tunes for the younger generation. There is something for everyone.

For a little quiet and to feel the romance of the village in the night, one can walk along the promenade or on one the footpaths around the mountain as the views are just as magnificent at night.

The sun setting behind Punta Mesco

The best for me though is to sit on the harbour wall and admire Monterosso from across the little bay. The town, neatly nestled within the valley, tenderly glows in a soft orange light like a new love affair. The site of the full moon, shimmering on the sea, with the sound of the water ever so gently rolling with a hush onto the shore, will truly make you fall in love with Monterosso.