Hiking in Monterosso – Monterosso to Soviore

Trail number 9

21^st of August 2013

Although it wasn’t the celebrated day of La Madonna da Soviore, I still wanted to embark on the traditional pilgrimage from Monterosso to Santuario di N. S. di Soviore.

The start of the hike can be found right at the top of via Roma, look out for the red and white markings indicating trial number 9. It begins with a series of stairs passing the last few houses of Monterosso and soon opens up onto a sandy path were lizards scurry past you to find shelter in the bushes alongside.

The shrine that exhibits a beautiful Prayer of the Pilgrim

A few steps into the hike I came across a little shrine where I stopped and read the Prayer of the Pilgrim. It is a beautiful prayer that adds a deeper meaning to your hike, as when you read it, the words alter a mere trail into a pilgrimage.

Prayer of the pilgrim

Walk, you are born for the walk

Walk, you have an appointment.

Where? With who?

You still do not know

Maybe with you alone.

 Walk

Your steps are maybe your words

The road, your song

Your fatigue, your prayer

At the end your silence will speak to you.

Walk

Alone, with others

But you exit alone

You create your rivals

You find your company

You imagine your enemies

You make your brothers

Walk

Your mind does not know where

Steps lead to your heart

Walk

You are born to go along the road

That of the pilgrim

Another walk coming towards you

And you search

Because you might find

A sanctuary along your walk

A sanctuary deep in your heart

 He is your peace

He is your joy

Go

God already walks with you

Along the trial you will come across a shrine for Madonna da Soviore and beautiful views of Monterosso with the Sanctuary of Soviore on top of the mountain

The trail ascends into the mountains and at times does seem a little hard going as you are always in ascent. There are not many flat paths offering a break. However, there are numerous spots where you can enjoy the view and catch your breath.  The hike is also mostly in the open sun with only a few sections that pass under the shade of the trees.

At one point you will need to cross the main road to continue the trail. The path continues into the forest of pine and chestnut trees. The Cappella di Santa Maria, an abandoned chapel along the path, offers a lovely surprise as one walks up the mountain.

Cappella di Santa Maria along the trail to the Sanctuary of Soviore

After an hour of hiking up the mountain I reached Santuario di N. S. di Soviore. As I had embarked on this hike at midday I was begging for a fountain but could not find one. Later I found out that the fountain can be found near the bar (note to self!)

The entrance to the Sanctuary of Soviore

Soviore’s name is derived from the Latin word Subvioris, which means ‘under the road’. The name is associated with the road that passes the sanctuary as it is the road that allows one to travel from the inland regions to the sea.

Views from Santuario di N. S. di Soviore

The first document to refer to the sanctuary that was found dates back to 1225. The sanctuary underwent remarkable development in the time of the Black Plague (1348) when it served as a hospital and a refuge for pilgrims.

The frescoes in the church are beautiful to view, not to mention the ceramic chandeliers and carved wooden doors. It is well worth your time to take a few minutes to admire the beautiful intricacies the church St. Maria has to offer.

St. Maria at Soviore

Instead of following the same path back to Monterosso I descended the mountain on the footpath and diverted onto the main road to continue down into the village.

Monterosso as viewed from the main road leading into the town

Although the descent also took me an hour, the extra minutes were well worth it as the Mediterranean views were spectacular.

It will take more time to walk down the main road to Monterosso but the coastal views are worth the extra minutes

Off the beaten track – exploring Garfagnana and discovering Campocatino and Vagli Sotto

18^th of August 2013

One evening I came across a brochure for the region of Garfagnana lying in the province of Tuscany and it sparked a curiosity within me. I have never heard about this region before and the descriptions of the various places seemed so enticing that I had an urge to go out there and explore. 

After much coaxing and the fortunate wish of Anna and Roberto who wanted to spend a day in the mountains, we finally set off on our day trip from Monterosso into unknown territory.



The highlighted green line is the route that we followed through Garfagnana

 

 

We had a late start to our day and after an hour of winding through forest roads we came to Aulla. A short distance after we passed the fortress proudly standing watch over the town, we found a quaint restaurant and had a fulfilling plate of pasta and glass of red wine.

 

A lunch stop at the restaurant Vecchio Bruxelles in Aulla

 

We continued on winding through the beautiful forest. The forest floor is covered in ferns with creepers that wind themselves around the bark of the trees and cascade down from the branches adding to the fullness of the green canopy. I was quite distracted by the beautiful forest and the dry leaves floating through the air as the breeze gentle blew them off the trees that I did not realise that we were slowly climbing up the mountain with each curve.

Before I realised, my breath was taken away as I looked up and saw these looming mountains, with their marble white façade glaring down at us. The peaks of the mountains in this area can be as high as 1 800m. As we climbed higher and higher up the mountain pass, the view got more magnificent. The immense panorama of how the mountains seemed to pleat in to each other with the high peaks glaring down at you, gave you the impression that the mountains could swallow you whole with their grandeur.

 

When the forest offered a clearing, we spotted a cluster of stone houses topped with red roofs and fortresses or castles.

 

After another hour and following a spider web of roads, we had finally reached our first destination, Campocatino, a petite village lying at the bottom of a basin that was moulded by an ancient suspended glacier and covered by lush grass.

 

Campocatino, once housed shepherds during the summer pasture season

 

The vertiginous Mount Roccandagia looms over this beautiful basin and the characteristic stone houses which are scattered about the basin, were once used by shepherds during the summer pasture.

Mount Roccandagio towering over Campocantino

If one finds themselves travelling off the beaten track in this area I would advise packing a basket of treats and having a picnic under the trees lining the green pastures and then exploring the characteristic houses made of stone.

The stone houses in Campocantino are still inhabited

I would also recommend the short walk to discover the monastery of San Viviano which is built inside a natural cavity situated right in the centre of a rock face. Unfortunately time did not allow us to discover this hidden gem. It is about a 45 minute walk from Campocatino. The footpath can be found to the left of the statue of the shepherd and his dog and the fountain offering you a drink of fresh mountain water. 

 

Campocantino

 

We then descended to the two towns Vagli Sopra (sopra means above or on top) and then to Vagli Sotto (sotto means underneath or at the bottom).

The view of Vagli Sopra and Vagli Sotto from Campocantino

The fame of Vagli is linked to the ‘ghost town’ which emerges covered in mud when a large reservoir is emptied. However, as the reservoir seemed full we did not see the ghost town but did explore Vagli Sotto, a small town built on top of a promontory stretching into the centre of the lake.

Approaching Vagli Sotto

It is a quaint town and so quiet that you would think this is the ghost town but it was fun running through the narrow cobbled stone streets, past the stone walls and wooden windows framed by bright red geraniums, while the elderly townsfolk where enjoying a bit of a chat under their pergolas. I could just imagine how they must have spoken about the mad woman running around with her camera, absorbing the sights and sounds of Vagli Sotto and snapping shots.

 

The streets of Vagli Sotto

 

Vagli Sotto is truly a characteristic Italian village and does not offer an abundance of sights but its charm and the beautiful setting is well worth a visit. Dad and I came across the beautiful stoned church of St. Agostino, a gem of Romanesque architecture. We also discovered a fountain with a continuous stream of water. Never has water tasted so sweet or the splash of water felt as refreshing as at this fountain.

 

 St. Agostino in Vagli Sotto

 

I did not see any shops or cafés in Vagli Sotto but only one bar as you enter the town. I recommend stopping and having a quick coffee or an ice-cream, sharing the veranda with a group of elderly men who I am sure meet at this bar every afternoon when the heat of the day has past and a cool breeze blows through the valley.

 

Last glance at Vagli Sotto before returning home

 

The day had caught up to us and it was time to make our 2 hour journey back to Monterosso. We followed the road along the lake to Castelnuovo Garfagnana and thereafter continued to Isola Santa, winding along with the bends of the river called Turrite Secca before descending to Massa and catching the autostrada to Monterosso.

It was a lovely drive offering many beautiful surprises. A little way before we reached Isola Santa we discovered a trout farm along the river by the big water wheel slowly turning. The building must have once been an old mill. As we approached Isola Santa, my breath was suddenly taken away just as suddenly as this little town pops into sight. As we drove past I must have counted about only 15 little stone houses, tightly packed on top of each other around a church.

We continued to follow the curve of the river through an avenue of trees. The mountains on our right were casting a shadow over the road while on our left the mountains were still glowing brightly with sunshine.

 

The mountains surrounding Massa are excavated for marble. From a distance, the marble in the mountains gives an illusion that they are covered with snow.

 

I must disclaim that the roads are extremely curvy which was quite evident on our descent to Massa. The road felt as if a child had taken a crayon and scribbled a zig-zag pattern across the mountain. However, the views do make up for it.

 

Views of the villages clustered within the mountains surrounding Massa

 

 When we arrived back in Monterosso we were pleasantly surprised by a most romantic sight. Hundreds of red and yellow candles were floating out to sea from the harbour. Each year, as a custom and tradition, the candles are lit and are left to drift out to sea in respect for Mortis et Orationis Oratory (Black Confraternity), the church in Monterosso commonly known as the church of the dead as in the past, this is where they used to lie the dead before the funeral took place. Going further back into history, the confraternity, which dressed in black robes, dates back to the 17^th century and was dedicated to aiding widows, orphans and the shipwrecked. Inside the church there is a statue of Saint Anthony the Abbot who used to live in the convent by the same name on Punta Mesco.

Sitting on the harbour wall, listening to live jazz music, watching the red and yellow lights drift slowly into the shimmering reflection of the light of the moon on the sea, I thought to myself, magical moments do not come alive in Italy; they are born in Italy.

Hiking in Monterosso – Monterosso to St. Antonio, Punta Mesco

Trail number 10

17^th of August 2013
 

Feeling the energy from Ferie Agosto I decided to hike up to the monastery of St. Antonio visible on the southern summit of the headland Punta Mesco. The church was established in the 14^th century, although parts of the ruin date further back in time.

Punta Mesco as viewed from Soviore, showing the hiking trial leading to St. Antonio

Although only ruins remain of this once beautiful church, it is worth the short hike up the mountain. The entire hike including my ascent, spending some time at St. Antonio and my descent took me 1 hour 30 minutes. The distance is 2 km and I would grade the hike as easy to moderate. As per hiking protocol, do not forget to take water, a hat and sunscreen as there is not much shade protecting you from the scorching sun.

I must be honest; the ascent is at first hard going as you walk up the hill that winds round the Belvedere Suisse Hotel. Thereafter you are confronted with a series of staircases. However, you are rewarded by beautiful views of the coast which serve as a distraction and before you realise it you reach a flat path that leads you to St. Antonio.

 

Beautiful views of the coast serve as a pleasant distraction along the hike

 

As one approaches St. Antonio you will reach a fork in the road. The path that splits off to the right leads one all along the coast to Levanto where you will descend to the castle. This route is part of trial no. 1 and you will need to allow an extra 2 hours to complete this path.

Fork in the road where the path to the right will lead you to Levanto; part of trial no. 1

I must admit that the ascent was not as tough as I thought it would be and before I realised it, I looked up and saw the ruins of St. Antonio proudly standing tall.

 

First view of St. Antonio

 

At the end of the 15^th century the monastery was built alongside the church. However, the monastery was progressively abandoned and the monks settled in Levanto.

The wooden statue of Saint Antonio the Abbot, that is currently housed in Mortis et Orationis Oratory in Piazza Matteoti in Monterosso, used to be kept in this monastery.

 

The ruins of St. Antonio

 

The monastery was also used as a watch tower to sight the approach of ships towards the coast, especially in the 16^th century. As danger was frequent, the men from the coastal villages used to come to the aid of the monks and ascend the mountain to light fires in the night and make smoke signals in the day to warn the villagers that a pirate ship was spotted on the horizon and possibly approaching. It was not always possible to avoid threats and in 1545 a fleet of pirate ships, Draghut, destroyed Monterosso and Corniglia.

 

The monastery used to serve as a watch tower, warning residents of approaching pirate ships

 

Standing within the ruins of St. Antonio, with the yellow butterflies fluttering around me, so close that they almost touched my nose, I could not help but feel the peace of nature and the stillness of the history hidden within the stones of the ruin of St. Antonio.

Ferie Agosto in Monterosso

14^th to 17^th of August 2013

With the arrival of Ferie Agosto, Monterosso exploded into a busy but eventful few days. The 16^th of August is an official holiday throughout Italy and many people take leave from work around these days. It is a time when many festas take place; not that Italians need a reason to hold a festa.

 La Madonna da Saviore

 

On the 14^th of August Monterosso celebrates La Madonna da Saviore.

 

Sanctuary of N. S. di Soviore

 

Traditionally, the residents would follow the pilgrimage from St.John the Baptist in Monterosso, up the mountain and through the forest to Soviore. The procession would be led by children carrying flowers to place at the alter of the church.

Views from Soviore, a monastery on top of the mountain that overlooks Monterosso. In the distance one can see Punta Mesco. The trees on top of the mountain gives one an impression that the mountain is the jawline of a stubble faced giant.

 

Although the pilgrim route is not followed today and the procession begins at the entrance to the monastery, the faith of the day is not lost to the townspeople.  Little children all dressed in white or adorned in the traditionally black and red cloaks, carry bunches of flowers and still lead the procession into the church. The procession is followed by the priest and monks, delegated individuals to carry the large crosses, the Monterosso band and lastly, the townspeople.

 

Procession that is lead into La Madonna da Soviore

 

Once inside the church the children place the flowers on the alter and sing the traditional song of Madonna da Soviore. One could describe it as the anthem of Monterosso as it is a shame if you are a local and do not know the words.

Children sing the traditional song of Madonna da Soviore before mass starts

After mass the monastery grounds erupt into a lively market that takes place under the large trees providing shade and shelter from the sun. One can grab a refreshment and a sandwich filled with roasted pork, oozing with a condiment of roasted onions, and socialise with your friends. From other stalls you can sample and purchase cheeses and cold meats. Children can buy a toy and sweets or my personal favourite, crocante. Crocante can be peanuts, hazelnuts or almonds, smothered in a sugary caramel crunchy layer of sweetness, very similar to peanut brittle in South Africa.

After the formal ceremonies, one can enjoy the market. Traditional strings of hazelnuts can be purchased among other delights.

Later that evening the festivities continued with a grand firework display in the bay by the harbour in Monterosso. I was completely mesmerised as the colours exploded in the sky, came shooting out from the sea or spiralled towards you like dragons breathing fire.

The fireworks seemed like a galaxy that was exploding

Dinner at the Campi Baichettu

The night before the actual day of Ferie Agosto, we joined Renso and his family and friends for a dinner they host each year on the bowling grounds.

A Ferie Agosto dinner at the Monterosso bowling club

It was an entertaining and social evening most enjoyed by all. We ate too much, we drank too much and we celebrated too much. We had antipasti of a selection of cold meats, marinated brinjals, stuffed vegetables, followed by seafood salad and accompanied by pan frit (which is a deep fried doughy bun, a lighter version of South Africa’s vetkoek).

As in true Italian style, a festa is never complete until a few people gather round, if you lucky, someone hauls out their guitar, and the singing of old classic songs begins. The song I recorded is Trilli Trilli, a Genovese old classic.

 

 

Madonna Bianca in Portovenere

On the 17^th of August Portovenere held a festival for Madonna Bianca. With our cousins Anna and Roberto from Bassano, who came to visit us in Monterosso, we decided to take the boat to Portovenere and partake in the festival.

 

Leaving Monterosso behind as we sailed out of the harbour

 

The boat trip allowed us to sail past each of the five lands which are part of the Cinque Terre. Each village has its own unique characteristic and is worth exploring.

Vernazza with its church built upon the beach is the first village after Monterosso

For those feeling energetic, you can hike the Cinque Terre. The hike takes about 5 hours but you will need a full day to allow yourself to linger in the villages as you pass them along the route. You will need to purchase a permit for this hike and ticket offices can be found as you enter and exit each town. A ticket, which includes your permit for the hike and a return train fare to your village where you are staying, costs 10€.

Corniglia set upon the hill, follows after Vernazza

A more relaxed alternative is to indulge in a boat trip. A daily ticket which costs 20€ will allow you to hop-on and hop-off at each village (excluding Corniglia) and also take you to Portovenere, as well as your return to the village where you are staying.

Manarola, where they have to lower their boats into the water from above using a pulley system, is the fourth village from Monterosso

The boat trip also allows you to admire the beautiful landscape, rock formations and the even tinier towns or homesteads that dot the coastline. Do not miss the rocky outcrop on which a cross has been placed for the ships that have struck it and sunk in the waters.

Riomaggiore set within a crevice, is the fifth village from Monterosso or the first village if you are travelling from Portovenere

Portovenere is a town situated in the Gulf of the Poets, not far from the port town La Spezia which is home to a naval base. It is called the Gulf of the Poets as poets such as Byron used to visit this beautiful village along the Mediterranean coast for inspiration.

Portovenere is protected by a castle based on the top of the hill around which the town was built. However, what always takes my breath away about this town is the view of the church built on the rock protruding out to sea as you sail towards it.

As we approached Portovenere they had placed candles all around the church and the rock whereupon it is built. It was beautiful to see and one could feel the genuine sentiment of the townspeople in celebrating Madonna Bianca.

 

The burning candles around the church at Portovenere was a beautiful site as we approached the town

 

They had also placed candles all along the path leading up to the church and as we entered the harbour, for those who still had breath left, it was definitely, completely taken away.

View of the church lit up by candles when entering the harbour

Portovenere has a narrow main road that runs along the harbour to the church where all the bars and restaurants are situated. I must admit, the town was overflowing with people. We struggled to find a seat at a restaurant and later, eventually gave up standing in queue to buy an ice-cream.

We did manage to find a spot at a bar where we could have a bite to eat and something to drink while we watched the procession for Madonna Bianca go past, on their path to the church where a mass would be held.

 

The procession in Portovenere for Madonna Bianca

 

All too soon, our boat was departing and we had to hop on and return home. Although our participation in this festival was brief, it was never-the-less still lovely to experience the tradition of Madonna Bianca in Portovenere.

Dinner in Framura

13^th of August 2013

Framura is the third train stop and a 30 minute train ride from Monterosso in the direction of Genoa. Over the years its quaint charm and striking panoramic views have captured the attention of visitors and Framura has become more popular.

The town is set against a steep mountain and made up of little hamlets easily accessible by foot from each other. Our cousins live in the hamlet at the top of the town, quite coincidentally called Costa. Luckily it is only a short winding road to reach Costa, or alternatively, one can climb the steps leading all the way from the train station to the dizzying heights of the uppermost hamlet.

 

The piazza in Costa, a hamlet of Framura with a view of another hamlet below

 

Each hamlet has something to offer, whether it is a medieval tower, historical monument or a peaceful piazza in which to enjoy a coffee while watching the local charisma of Framura. In summer Framura offers entertainment such as concerts and plays held in the piazzas or churches. However, Framura does not have a beach but does provide a cluster of large boulders on which one can laze and from which one can dive into the cool waters of the Mediterranean.

 

The quaint, quiet streets of Framura

 

We past a lovely evening in Framura, enjoying a delicious dinner with family and watching the sun set romantically over the Mediterranean, feeling the calmness of the vast sea stretching out before us.

Framura may be one of the quieter coastal towns but the views will simple take your breath away

A short break-away in the region of Piedmont

6^th – 9^th of August 2013

I always enjoy travelling to the region of Piedmont as I feel it is the undiscovered gem of north Italy not visited by many.  Not only does it offer calm and tranquillity but also beautiful landscape of mountains and rivers, forests filled with pine and chestnut trees, not to mention mushrooms when in season, quaint towns with medieval foundations, wine farms and much more just waiting to be discovered.

South of Alessandria you will find Ovada and a little lower you will spot Molare. Cassinelle is a small town 5km from Molare

A short 2 hour journey from Monterosso brought us to Tenuta Elena, where we visited Giorgio, a family friend. Him and his family own and run a wine farm on a hill overlooking the small town Cassinelle.

We got to enjoy the view of the valley and the town of Casinelle with each meal on the terrace

Cassinelle is a very small, quaint town boasting Italian character. A quick drive through the narrow cobbled streets revealed a bakery, a tiny supermarket and of course a café where you could find the local men gathering every evening for a chat.

The streets of Cassinelle

Although Cassinelle is less than an hour drive from the coast, there is no need to venture that far to escape the heat and refresh in cool waters as the Orba River which flows through this region provides a beautiful alternative to the Mediterranean beaches.

One afternoon we went to the nature reserve and swam in the Orba River. The river has large pools where you can swim and even scramble off rocks for a dive into the deep waters. However, I must be honest here and admit that diving into the water, even if only from a nerve-racking 1m high rock, was not quite for me. I rather spent my time gentle gliding through the calm water, been amused by someone’s dog who every time Giorgio climbed onto the rocks went swimming after him. 

A refreshing swim in the Orba River where one can dive off the rocks into deep pools

A scramble over rocks revealed a beautiful view of the flowing river. Nature is abundant in Piedmont and while I sat on the rock with my feet dangling in the water trying not to jump when the little fishes came to nibble at my feet, I thought to myself how lucky I am to be able to experience the beautiful little corners of Italy.

Our second last day in Cassinelle began with a thunderstorm which was fascinating to watch but when it seemed like a crack of lightning struck the earth with a sharp sound of a whip and a bright light blinded my vision, mom and I jumped inside the house and waiting for the storm to pass.

A thunderstorm in Piedmont which was even accompanied by small hailstones

When the storm broke we decided to take a drive to Sassello. However, it seemed the thunderstorm was a bad omen for the day because as we ascended into the mountain pass, the car suddenly stopped. The fuel gage was broken and we had run out of diesel. Luckily Giorgio caught a lift back to his farm where he could grab a can of diesel and return to rescue the stranded South Africans.

While waiting for Giorgio to return from our break down I had the opportunity to snap some country shots

Our Sassello expedition was temporarily postponed and we went to visit a Grappa Distillery called Distilleria Gualco in a little nearby town, Silvano d’Orba.

Giorgio, the grandson of Susanna, who after her husband’s death carried on the family tradition of distilling Grappa, gave us a tour of the cellar. He still uses the same oven as his forefathers used to distil Grappa which was built in 1870.

The Grappa cellar at Distilleria Gualco

In honour of his grandmother, the Grappa is labelled ‘Le Grappa di Susanna’ and runs ever so smoothly over your pallet. Later that evening, after supper we sampled four varieties. We began our Grappa tasting with Suavitas, a Grappa infused with milk and lemon. It had a lovely sweet taste and was my favourite. Thereafter we had Superla which is a Grappa infused with 12 types of herbs. We then advanced onto Grappa Stravecchia which is made from the grapes Dolcetto d’Ovada (from Giorgio’s winery) and matured in a barrel for two years. Lastly, we ended our tasting with a smooth Grappa Vecchio Piemonte also made from Dolcetto d’Ovada but matured for three years in the barrel.

Scenes from the farm where we had purchased Piemonte Steaks for dinner

The next day we ventured out again for Sassello and this time the only challenge was winding through the curvy mountain passes to reach this popular town passing Pian Castagna on the way.

The well-known Virginia Amaretti biscuits are produced in Sassello and can be purchased at the cafés

After a cappuccino we wandered along the cobble streets of the historic centre of Sassello.

On one of the buildings we discovered an old-fashioned sundial accurately telling the time

Heading out of town I spotted a signboard that pointed towards a medieval bridge and with resistance, I dragged everyone down the cobbled street to have a look. Luckily Giorgio had found a plum tree that when he gave the branch a tug, a shower of plums came raining down which we had to scurry after to collect as they went tumbling down the hill. Thereafter, the reluctance of going to see the bridge was dissipated by the sweet taste of the plums.

The medieval bridge in Sassello

We drove home through Ponzone towards Acqui Terme allowing the beauty of the forests and farmlands to enchant us. Little villages, as if someone had sprinkled pastel coloured hundered-and-thousands over a lusciously green landscape, dot the landscape of folding hills.

The region of Piedmont offers many little surprises and is well worth for one to explore and discover the magic that is hidden within these mountains.

Rural charm at Tenuta Elena, Cassinelle