Italy’s fight for freedom and democracy on Janiculum Hill

29th of August to 2nd of September 2013

This was actually our second visit to Janiculum Hill or Gianicolo as it is written in Italian. The first time was by accident and the second with intent, in actual fact, and I can’t believe it, our first time here over all the years we have visited Rome.

The first time we stumbled upon this area was when we were trying to make our way to a restaurant a cousin had recommended but instead we got hopelessly lost. That is another story to tell for another day but needless to say, after at least two bus rides, exploration of the metro system and a tram ride, followed by another bus ride; we arrived at the restaurant, wanting to kiss the waiter as she led us to a table.

Having arrived at Carlo Menta after an excitingly, frustrating journey

As travelling karma goes, out of the bad luck of getting lost, we were rewarded with something beautiful. While sitting on the bus, winding up the curvy road to the top of Janiculum Hill, my frustration dissipated as I watched people strolling along the promenade, shaded by tall trees, feeling mystified by the view over the city at sunset.

It is simply beautiful and I silently thought to myself how nice it would be to return and explore. Luckily, on our last day in Rome, time allowed for an excursion before we had to go to the airport and Janiculum Hill sprang to mind.

One of the views from Janiculum Hill

Rome is known as the city of seven hills but in fact has more than that. Although the Janiculum is the second tallest hill in the contemporary city of Rome, it is not listed among the seven famous hills as it lies outside the borders of the ancient city.

Situated above the Vatican and Trastevere neighbourhood, the Janiculum Hill lies to the west of Rome and Tiber River, outside the ancient city walls, but offers beautiful panoramic views.

Saint Peter’s Basilica viewed from Janiculum Hill

The Janiculum Hill does not only present the visitor with a pretty face and a view of Rome’s ancient landmarks but it allows one the opportunity to learn about the more modern history of Italy and the Italian Risorgimento, the 19th century movement that unified modern Italy.

The Constitution Wall by Annalaura Spalla has inscribed the entire 1849 Constitution of the Roman Republic.

In 1849 the Janiculum was the scene of a memorable battle where the revolutionary Roman Republic, led by Garibaldi, fought against French troops which were attacking Rome to abolish the Republic and restore the temporal power of the Pope over Rome.

Many young men came from all over Italy and Europe to fight for the ideals of freedom and democracy represented by the Roman Republic. Many young men sacrificed their lives fighting on the Janiculum Hill.

When Rome became the capital of the unified Italy, the Janiculum Hill was considered a symbol of the national identity and a memorial park called the Parco Gianicolense was created. Monuments in honour of all those who had fought for a united, free and independent country, can be found on the Janiculum Hill.

One can walk across the lawn where busts are scattered about, recalling personages of the Risorgimento who had fought in the wars of Italian independence. One of the fallen comrades was a young man, Goffredo Mameli, a 21 year old poet who wrote the Italian national anthem.

The largest monument of the Janiculum is a statue of Giuseppe Garibaldi on horseback, located at the centre of a small piazza. It was designed by Emilio Gallori and built in 1895. The words ‘Roma o Morte’ (Rome or Death) are inscribed on the monument.

The monument to Giuseppe Garibaldi on Janiculum Hill.

Another monument honouring a brave soldier in the fight for independence and my favourite one on Janiculum Hill is the monument in Piazzale Anita Garibaldi, honouring Giuseppe Garibaldi’s wife, Ana Maria de Jesus Ribeiro da Silva who is known as Anita Garibaldi. 

Anita Garibaldi's body lies in the base of the monument.

She was born in Brazil in 1821 and was Garibaldi’s inseparable partner in the fight for the freedom of the people in America and in Europe. 

The statue was inspired by an event during the war fought for the freedom and the independence of the Rio Grande do Sul Republic. While Garibaldi was away, his camp at Mostardas was attacked during the night. Anita managed to escape by jumping onto a horse with her new born baby.

Each scene on the monument illustrates Anita’s bravery and courage during her life. 

The front panel depicts Anita leading a rank of soldiers across the pampas.

The side panel portrays Anita’s anxiety as she frantically searches for Garibaldi, amongst the bodies of the soldiers that had fallen, on the battle field of Curitibanos.

The back panel depicts an ill and exhausted Anita in Garibaldi’s arms.

Anita had escaped the Austrians who were hunting them down after the glorious defence of Rome and they had safely reached the Coast of Romagna to a hamlet near Ravenna. However, the struggle for freedom had taken its toll on Anita and she died on a farm, in this hamlet near Ravenna on 4 August 1849 at the young age of 28.

Our walk on Janiculum Hill and our journey back in time was most interesting.  I felt that it had rounded off our Italy trip on a nice note as not only did we have the opportunity to immerse ourselves in the ancient history of the Roman Empire but we also learnt about the battles fought by the people to unify Italy as we know it today. 

There is also fun to be had on Janiculum Hill where children can go for pony rides and play in a games room, with even a Ferris wheel

In Roman mythology, Janiculum is the name of an ancient town founded by the god Janus, the two-faced god of beginnings; quite ironic when you think that Janiculum Hill played a significant role in a united Italy beginning its journey of independence.

Arrivederci, Roma

Our journey in Italy had come to an end but with every ending, comes a new beginning, with many more adventures still to be had.