A lakeside picnic by Lago di Bolsena en-route to Rome

29^th of August

Enjoying the country feel of Tuscany and not wanting to rush to Rome on the autostrada, we decided to drive to Rome via the scenic route. It might add an extra hour to your journey but if you have the time it is nice to do as you see more of the country and the landscape is not just a blur as you speed down the highway.

We followed the regional SR2 that runs from north to south, from Siena to Rome. It runs parallel with the highway A1.

The SR2 runs parallel to the left of the highway A1 from Siena to Rome

The SR2 is also known as ‘via Cassia’, the ancient Roman road. During the Middle Ages it became known as ‘via Francigena’. It was a pilgrim route covering a distance of 1 700 km, starting from Canterbury in England and ending at the tomb of St. Peter in St. Peter’s Basilica in the Vatican.

The pilgrim road received the name ‘via Francigena’ as it was used by pilgrims from France to reach Rome, passing through Switzerland.

  

We retraced our steps back to San Quirico d’Orcia and from there headed south towards Bolsena. We left the beautiful vineyards of Tuscany behind us and entered a rather dry countryside with vast spans of wheat fields before being welcomed by the forests bordering the province of Lazio.

Leaving the beautiful countryside of Tuscany before entering the region of Lazio

Along the way we would pass Lago di Bolsena, Lago di Vico and Lago di Bracciano before reaching Rome.

Lago di Bolsena is Europe’s biggest volcanic lake, covering a total area of 113.5 km². It is surrounded by mountains, woods and farmland. There are two islands in the lake which can be seen if you drive along the 60 km road around the lake.

Lago di Bolsena in the province of Lazio

The lake was formed about 300 000 years ago when lava eruptions by the Vulsinio volcanic group occurred. Two separated craters in the Volsini Mountains fell into each other and a large caldera was formed that filled up with water.

Approaching Bolsena we passed many campsites and agriturismo and shared the road with energetic cyclists

We arrived around lunchtime in Bolsena, the town located on the shore of the lake and from which naturally, the lake received its name. Feeling a little peckish we decided to buy some eats and have a picnic along the lake. However, there was one slight problem, everyone was closing shop for lunchtime so we split ways and made a mad dash. In the end we were victorious with a picnic of rolls, mortadela (a type of cold meat), grapes, peaches and drinks.

The town of Bolsena

After lunch we took a walk along the promenade by the river, under the shade of the trees. Lago di Bolsena has a beautiful serenity and by watching the activities taking place it definitely seems like a place in Italy were people come to escape the city life and enjoy a bit of the outdoors.

A picnic on the shoreline of Lago di Bolsena

Fishing boats can be seen floating off the shores of the lake. Fish are abundant in the lake and you can even find eel swimming in these waters. There is a large presence of birdlife due to the abundant feed and protection provided to them; therefore ardent birdwatchers will be in paradise.

We passed a small port with sailing yachts and I can only imagine how peaceful it must be to sail the waters of this volcanic lake.

Lakeside relaxation

On the opposite side where we enjoyed our peaceful picnic, the shoreline explodes into a vibrant stretch of bars, restaurants and narrow beaches. I even spotted a volleyball net on the narrow beach of dark volcanic sand.

Before hitting the road again, we took a quick tour of the town.

The castle of Bolsena, Rocca Monaldeschi della Cervara

The castle of Bolsena, Rocca Monaldeschi della Cervara, sits atop the hill and proudly boasts beautiful panoramic views of the lake.

The gate to the Castle of Bolsena

The castle was built between the 12^th and 14^th centuries by the Monaldeschi who were the rulers of Orvieto and Bolsena at that time.

A walk around the medieval streets of Bolsena

During the Middle Ages the lake was known as Lago di San Cristina. Saint Cristina, a young girl, was a martyr who refused to abandon her Christian beliefs. She was tied to a stone and thrown into the lake. However, the stone did not drag her down to the bottom of the lake but instead supported and carried her to shore. A stone with the imprint of the martyr’s feet was venerated in a 4^th century altar found inside a cave.

View of Lago di Bolsena from the castle

Bolsena is well known for a miracle that occurred in 1263 at the altar, near this cave. A Bohemian priest, who was in doubt about the doctrine of Transubstantiation (the belief that the elements of the Lord’s table, the bread and wine, supernaturally transform into the body and blood of Christ during the Mass) was convinced of its truth when drops of blood appeared on the host he had consecrated during a mass. The miracle was reported to Pope Urban IV who introduced the feast of Corpus Christi still held to this day on 26^th of June annually in Bolsena.

A church opposite the Castle of Bolsena with a lovely stained glass rose window

We departed Bolsena and continued our journey to Rome and our pilgrimage by car along the ‘via Francigena’ route.