A lakeside picnic by Lago di Bolsena en-route to Rome

29^th of August

Enjoying the country feel of Tuscany and not wanting to rush to Rome on the autostrada, we decided to drive to Rome via the scenic route. It might add an extra hour to your journey but if you have the time it is nice to do as you see more of the country and the landscape is not just a blur as you speed down the highway.

We followed the regional SR2 that runs from north to south, from Siena to Rome. It runs parallel with the highway A1.

The SR2 runs parallel to the left of the highway A1 from Siena to Rome

The SR2 is also known as ‘via Cassia’, the ancient Roman road. During the Middle Ages it became known as ‘via Francigena’. It was a pilgrim route covering a distance of 1 700 km, starting from Canterbury in England and ending at the tomb of St. Peter in St. Peter’s Basilica in the Vatican.

The pilgrim road received the name ‘via Francigena’ as it was used by pilgrims from France to reach Rome, passing through Switzerland.

  

We retraced our steps back to San Quirico d’Orcia and from there headed south towards Bolsena. We left the beautiful vineyards of Tuscany behind us and entered a rather dry countryside with vast spans of wheat fields before being welcomed by the forests bordering the province of Lazio.

Leaving the beautiful countryside of Tuscany before entering the region of Lazio

Along the way we would pass Lago di Bolsena, Lago di Vico and Lago di Bracciano before reaching Rome.

Lago di Bolsena is Europe’s biggest volcanic lake, covering a total area of 113.5 km². It is surrounded by mountains, woods and farmland. There are two islands in the lake which can be seen if you drive along the 60 km road around the lake.

Lago di Bolsena in the province of Lazio

The lake was formed about 300 000 years ago when lava eruptions by the Vulsinio volcanic group occurred. Two separated craters in the Volsini Mountains fell into each other and a large caldera was formed that filled up with water.

Approaching Bolsena we passed many campsites and agriturismo and shared the road with energetic cyclists

We arrived around lunchtime in Bolsena, the town located on the shore of the lake and from which naturally, the lake received its name. Feeling a little peckish we decided to buy some eats and have a picnic along the lake. However, there was one slight problem, everyone was closing shop for lunchtime so we split ways and made a mad dash. In the end we were victorious with a picnic of rolls, mortadela (a type of cold meat), grapes, peaches and drinks.

The town of Bolsena

After lunch we took a walk along the promenade by the river, under the shade of the trees. Lago di Bolsena has a beautiful serenity and by watching the activities taking place it definitely seems like a place in Italy were people come to escape the city life and enjoy a bit of the outdoors.

A picnic on the shoreline of Lago di Bolsena

Fishing boats can be seen floating off the shores of the lake. Fish are abundant in the lake and you can even find eel swimming in these waters. There is a large presence of birdlife due to the abundant feed and protection provided to them; therefore ardent birdwatchers will be in paradise.

We passed a small port with sailing yachts and I can only imagine how peaceful it must be to sail the waters of this volcanic lake.

Lakeside relaxation

On the opposite side where we enjoyed our peaceful picnic, the shoreline explodes into a vibrant stretch of bars, restaurants and narrow beaches. I even spotted a volleyball net on the narrow beach of dark volcanic sand.

Before hitting the road again, we took a quick tour of the town.

The castle of Bolsena, Rocca Monaldeschi della Cervara

The castle of Bolsena, Rocca Monaldeschi della Cervara, sits atop the hill and proudly boasts beautiful panoramic views of the lake.

The gate to the Castle of Bolsena

The castle was built between the 12^th and 14^th centuries by the Monaldeschi who were the rulers of Orvieto and Bolsena at that time.

A walk around the medieval streets of Bolsena

During the Middle Ages the lake was known as Lago di San Cristina. Saint Cristina, a young girl, was a martyr who refused to abandon her Christian beliefs. She was tied to a stone and thrown into the lake. However, the stone did not drag her down to the bottom of the lake but instead supported and carried her to shore. A stone with the imprint of the martyr’s feet was venerated in a 4^th century altar found inside a cave.

View of Lago di Bolsena from the castle

Bolsena is well known for a miracle that occurred in 1263 at the altar, near this cave. A Bohemian priest, who was in doubt about the doctrine of Transubstantiation (the belief that the elements of the Lord’s table, the bread and wine, supernaturally transform into the body and blood of Christ during the Mass) was convinced of its truth when drops of blood appeared on the host he had consecrated during a mass. The miracle was reported to Pope Urban IV who introduced the feast of Corpus Christi still held to this day on 26^th of June annually in Bolsena.

A church opposite the Castle of Bolsena with a lovely stained glass rose window

We departed Bolsena and continued our journey to Rome and our pilgrimage by car along the ‘via Francigena’ route.

Tuscany dreaming

27^th to 29^th of August 2013

South of Siena, about an hour drive away, lays four Tuscan towns that we visited - Montepulciano, Pienza, San Quirico d'Orcia and Montalcino. Each had their own unique character that we wanted to experience and they all had one thing in common, some of the best wines in Italy to enjoy.

A map indicating the towns we visited in Tuscany

Montepulciano

Montepulciano

We arrived to Montepulciano in the rain but luckily, without too much trouble and with the help of our GPS, we found Camere Bellavista in via Ricci. It is only a short walk from Piazza Grande and the centre of town but the bonus for me was that our walks, to and from the guesthouse, were always accompanied by music played by the students from the music academy situated in the same street. Furthermore, opposite the guesthouse lay an antique book store. My dream had already begun!

Beautiful views from Camere Bellavista situated near Piazza Grande

Montepulciano has been built on a high geological ridge. The main street leads from Porta al Prato to Piazza Grande and climbs from 60 m at the lowest level to a height of 500 m. Consequently you can imagine that the town consists of steep, narrow streets connected to each other with many short, narrow alleyways.

The streets and alleyways of Montepulciano

In Piazza Grande one will find the town’s cathedral built in the 16^th century.

Il Duomo in Piazza Grande 

Montepulciano boasts an array of buildings from the 17^th and 18^th century. The noblemen of the town carried out many of the projects to exult personal status. The town has many prestigious palaces scattered along the streets to admire.

Palazza Comunale in Piazza Grande on our rainy arrival in Montepulciano

We popped into a wine cellar, Cantina Contucci, a short way off Piazza Grande and there we met Antonella who we had a lovely conversation with about vines and olives in Italy compared to in South Africa. Afterwards she recommended we go eat at Ristorante il Cittino in via di Cagnano. If only we knew the joy that awaited us our mouths would already have started to water.

Cellar tour of Cantina Cantucci

Ristorante il Cittino is a small family run restaurant, quite informal but wonderful, as you feel like a guest in the proprietors’ dining room. We had a plate overflowing with the local speciality pici, pasta made from flour and water but no eggs. It was delicious as we slurped up the long strings with red meat sauce dripping down our chins. The tastes took me back to days spent in my grandmother’s kitchen table eating wonderful Italian food.

Ristorante il Cittino in via di Cagnano

However, we arrived a little too early at the restaurant as the lady was still making the fresh pasta so we said that we would take a walk around town and then come back for supper. The streets are so pleasant to amble through that one really doesn’t mind.

Torre della Pulcinella, a clock tower where on the hour, the little puffin strikes the bell to indicate the time

As the mist came rolling over the hills, the evening may have seemed a little dark and dreary but this town has a charm that will capture you and all her moods will be endearing.

The mist creeping over the hills towards Montepulciano

Waking up at Camere Bellavista and peering out at the Tuscan sun beaming through the clouds down onto the green hills filled me with an awe of wonder every morning. It’s a moment where one needs to pinch yourself just to make sure you not dreaming.

A beautiful morning view at Camere Bellavista with the Temple of San Biagio peeking out of the trees

Feeling full of excitement we set out on a day of exploration and dived deeper into the town of Montepulciano.

There are many shops to distract you along the streets, from curios to boutiques, to art studios and antique book stores.

Montepulciano offers many shops that will distract you

There are many beautiful churches with beautiful decorative pieces that are well worth a visit.

Take time to visit the churches in Montepulciano and admire the architecture

However, the main reason for visiting Montepulciano is of course to sample the famous Vino Nobili di Montepulciano, a blend of Sangiovese (known locally as Prugnolo Gentile), Canaiolo and Mammolo, as well as the typical cheese Pecorino Stagionato, matured under soil or ash.

Tasting rooms may also offer a museum. The one we visited displayed an old olive oil press and distilling pot, and even a wishing well

There are many tasting rooms where one can taste wine, olive oil, salami, cheeses and even Grappa. They also often a small museum displaying old farm implements, family relics or even fossils of seashells found in the area.

At Cantina, one could view the family chapel alongside the tasting room

Outside the walls of Montepulciano, the temple, Tiempo di San Biagio was constructed and it is said that the elaborate style inspired many builders of other palaces in the region.

Tiempo di San Biagio

Alongside the temple one will find the monastery. There is a tasting room in the cantina of the monastery but unfortunately it was closed when we passed by.

Tiempo di San Biagio and the monastery

Moving further away from the city walls of Montepulciano and travelling the Tuscan roads, we stopped by another cellar on a farm where the vines were in an immaculate condition, giving Tuscany the honour it deserves for its renowned beauty.

A quick stop and wine tasting at a cellar a short distance from Montepulciano en-route to Pienza

We decided to explore some towns in the vicinity of Montepulciano which were highly recommended for their beauty. We drove to Pienza, on towards San Quirico d’Orcia and then to Montalcino. With each town, we discovered each of their characters.

Pienza

Pienza, 20 minutes from Montepulciano

We thoroughly enjoyed Pienza. It is as picturesque as Montepulciano but I felt it was a little more lively and energetic.

Arriving in Pienza

Walking along the outer wall to the cathedral we could not help but stop and read out the names of the streets as they are so charming.

Via del Bacio (the road of the kiss) for the married couple and via dell’Amore (the road of love) for the one still looking

There was an art exhibition by Piero Sbarlazzi of stone carvings. For me, the artist’s statue of the man and woman on horseback called “L’incontro” was simply beautiful.

Art exhibition by Piero Sbarlazzi

We wandered around the streets for a bit, absorbing the sights and sounds of this busy Tuscan town. One can idle along getting lost in characteristic charm.

The town of Pienza

We stopped at a café for a panini and beer before making our way back to the car and on to the next town.

Lunch in Pienza

San Quirico d’Orcia

San Quirico d’Orcia is a petite hamlet in Tuscany offering much tranquillity. It is as beautiful as the other towns but its character is one more of peace and serenity.

San Quirico d’Orcia, 10 minutes from Pienza

The town is encircled by a medieval stone wall and was an important centre for trade and commerce as it is situated on the intersection between via Francigena, a road which from late medieval times until the middle of the 19^th century, was the main route to Rome and southern Italy.

The ancient wall of San Quirico d’Orcia and the piazza

We stumbled upon Horti Leonni, a beautiful garden to wander in.

Horti Leonni

A short walk down a quiet street lined with cafes brought us to the site of a delicately softly coloured church. Pieve dei Santi Quirico e Giulitta boasts a Gothic-style rose-window and is characterised by a 12^th century Romanesque portal whose vestibule is supported by columns resting on two lionesses.

Pieve dei Santi Quirico e Giulitta

We strolled through the quiet streets of San Quirico d’Orcia. I presume since it was early afternoon, everyone was hidden indoors hiding from the heat and having an afternoon nap.

Strolling the streets of San Quirico d’Orcia

Before leaving this quaint hamlet, we went to see San Maria, an 11^th century Romanesque church.

San Maria, an 11^th century Romanesque church

Montalcino

Montalcino, 15 minutes from San Quirico d'Orcia

A drive in Tuscany would not be complete unless you lost your way in the hills and had to stop to consult the map once again to orientate yourself. Luckily, where we had stopped there was a blackberry bush and we could pick some as a sweet refreshment.

Picking blackberries on the side of the road in Tuscany

Montalcino is a lovely town but in all fairness I think we were all a little too tired to appreciate its personality to the fullest.

Walking through town towards the castle

However, its charm did not escape us and we did get to enjoy the vistas of the countryside from the castle walls.

Part of the castle walls and views of the countryside from Montalcino

We retraced our steps back to Montepulciano and ended our evening with a wine tasting at Cantina Cantucci. I must admit, Vino Nobili is a lovely wine to drink and it has rightfully earned its reputation of being the king of wines in Tuscany. After all, it has roots in ancient history, from when the Etruscans planted vines, olive trees and cypress trees in the area. In actual fact, Tuscany is named after it's pre-Roman inhabitants, the Etruscans

Wine tasting at Cantina Cantucci before dinner

As we were in Tuscany, we had to indulge in a Florentine Steak to accompany the red wine we had been drinking. Antonella recommended another enjoyable restaurant for the evening, Trattoria di Cagnano in via Del’ Opio nel Corso.

Every year, Montepulciano hosts a barrel race called ‘Il Bravio delle Botti’ on the last Sunday of August. However, this year it was postponed due to rain and although we would not be in town when it occurred we caught site of the teams partaking in a practice run for the big event. 

Each district of the town is represented by a team and within in each team are two ‘spingitori’ who push a wine barrel up the steep slopes of the historical centre until they reach the finish line by the Duomo in Piazza Grande for just over one kilometre. The teams compete for the ‘bravio’, a painted banner depicting the city’s patron saint, St John the Baptist.

Practice run for ‘Il Bravio delle Botti’

We were glad that we could partake in the practice run and experience a small slice of the city's tradition, making our stay in Montepulciano and Tuscany a perfect blend of tradition - local wine, cheese, cuisine and the beautiful hearts of each of the historical towns.

A night of medieval fantasy at Medievalis in Pontremoli

25^th of August 2013

Since 2005, Pontremoli, about an hour drive from Monterosso, hosts a medieval festival to rediscover the history and ancient traditions of the town. The festival is held to commemorate the arrival of Federico II to Pontremoli in July 1226 and to celebrate his contribution to the town council.

In medieval times, Italy was not united as it is now but consisted of many states or areas, ruled by their own kings, waging wars to gain territory and power. From the year 700 Federico II had kept the area in Tuscany referred to as ‘Pontremolese territory’ under their jurisdiction. On the fourth day after his arrival in Pontremoli, a series of games called ‘Disfida de la Cortina di Cazzaguerra’ followed in honour of the emperor, where the protaganists of the districts Imoborgo, Sommoborgo and Contado competed.

Pontremoli is situated between the Verde River and the Magra River, in the province of Massa and Carrara, Tuscany. Literally translated, Pontremoli means “trembling bridge”.

One of the many bridges crossing over the river into Pontremoli. Castello del Piagnaro can be seen on the hill in the distance (bottom left photo).

We crossed over the Magra River by a bridge that is guarded by four stone statues, each standing proudly on each corner of the crossing. We were not sure what we would be experiencing in this medieval town and with excitement we crossed over into Pontremoli.

Entering the market square in Piazza Repubblica where we encountered medieval personas

What awaited us was a medieval world of fantasy played out within this beautiful town.

In Piazza Duomo we watched a fascinating flag tournament, Disfida de la Cortina di Cazzaguerra, where groups, representing the regions Imoborgo, Sommoborgo and Contado, challenged each other to a display with flags, accompanied by the steady beats of drums and trumpets.

 The Disfida de la Cortina de Cazzaguerra, a tournament of flags

It was remarkable to see the coordination as the team waved their flags, synchronised their steps, and threw the flags into the air to be caught again by other team members.

 On further exploration we came upon a medieval camp next to the Verde River. All along the river we found re-constructed scenes from medieval times depicting life as it was then.

A medieval town was re-constructed along the Verde River

We followed the river, having a little fun on the way and arrived at Osteria de la Plebe where we enjoyed local specialities and a beer. The local speciality we sampled was sausages cooked in a tomato and bean sauce. It was tasty and ever so delicious to mop up the sauce with your bread and have it dribble down your hand in true medieval, course style of the peasants.

Our medieval dinner at Osteria de la Plebe along the Verde River

With our bellies filled, we continued our journey through town, experiencing the sights and sounds of our fantasy world played out within a new century realm. All the shop windows were decorated with a medieval theme and during the festival, a competition is held to select the best dressed window. The streets are lined with antique and book shops, art galleries, boutiques and cafés.

Crossing over the Verde River on a medieval bridge back into the town centre

During the festival many food and beer stalls are scattered along the streets, as well as various stalls selling medieval props of flower garlands, swords, peasant hats, medieval musical instruments and more. There are also art and craft stalls selling the most beautiful glassware and lamp shades or leather products, as well as specialities such as dried mushrooms and the most delicious sweets I have ever tasted.

Dad bought a few and I don’t blame him as there were bags and bags of different colours and flavours on display enticing you – orange, lemon, apple, strawberry, liquorice, cinnamon, the list is endless. As soon as I popped one of these oval delights into my mouth, I received a burst of flavour, followed by the creamy, sweet taste of white chocolate that melted in your mouth and thereafter, the final treat, a delicious almond to chew on.

With a lingering sweetness we ambled through the streets, stopping to watch street performances along the way. One such performance seemed to have been performed by a gypsy family where the dad was playing tricks such as eating fire; the daughter was beating the drums while the other was entrancing us with a fire dance and the mother was jingling the tambourine.

The streets were alive with performers, stalls and visitors just having fun

Unfortunately it had started to rain but the thought that we might never be able to attend the Medievalis festival in Pontremoli again, gave us the push we needed to persevere with our exploration. Of course this challenge did not come without moans and groans from mom who we left under the shelter of an archway while dad and I climbed the steps to the castle.

I am glad that we did make the effort as the pathway leading to the castle is enchantingly beautiful. The soft orange glow from the street lamps illuminated the stone walls of the houses, adding a sense of mystic and beauty to our experience.

Once we reached the top we found medieval personas of knights, archers, peasants and children running around. They were all waiting for the rain to clear so that they could start the parade through town. However, we had overheard that they may cancel the parade due to the rain so with a disappointed heart we started making our way through town towards the car, absorbing the last sights and sounds of the festival.

An enchantingly, beautiful walk to Castello de lo Piagnaro

While we were making our way back to the car we heard the sound of beating drums approaching, getting progressively louder. What fortunate luck, they had started the parade!

A medieval parade, escorting the king and queen to the tournament

I was so excited by it, feeling the beat of the drums and trumpets, watching the procession of knights, fire blowers, the religious order, king and queen and their entourage passing by that I joined the end of the march and followed them through town.

The parade ended at the re-created medieval camp on the Verde River where the king and queen took their rightful place on the platform to watch the events as they would unfold. The various medieval characters re-enacted how a knight was knighted and how he practised the different sword stances and techniques for battle. A battle scene was acted out and riders demonstrated how the knights competed in tournaments and jousted.

The night was coming to an end and the spectacle was coming to a close with another flag display and performance, as well as a choreographed show by the fire blowers. At one stage they had lit two hoops with fire and blinded folded one of the performers, who proceeded to ran towards the hoops and perfectly somersault through them, landing on the other side as the other three performers blew fire for a dramatic effect.

At the medieval camp they re-enacted the life of a knight

Once again, thinking the show was over, we headed back towards the car, leaving the sound of the pounding medieval drums behind us. A thunderstorm was stirring in the clouds above us and we had seen lightening fluttering in the clouds above so when we heard a loud bang, like a canon, we looked at each in disbelief and thought it can’t possibly be lightening. After the third explosion we realised that it was fireworks and we ran back onto the bridge we had crossed a minute ago to watch the grand finale of the festival.

A grand finale to an once in a lifetime experience

It was truly a grand finale to a grand experience as the colours exploded in the sky illuminating the river below and the castle on the hill. The experience of Medievalis Festival in Pontremoli made the long drive home at midnight worth every kilometre.