Our first view of Mosi-oa-Tunya was from the air and by the end of the day we would have viewed Victoria Falls by air, foot and boat; all good ways to fully appreciate its beauty I would think.
We were shuttled to Elephant Hills, the base of Shearwater Adventures, where we were weighed in (yes, a big shock to all) and then hurriedly escorted to the helicopter that had just landed.
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| Flight of Angels with Shearwater Adventures |
Everything happened so quickly and before I knew it, I was seated in front, buckled in and the helicopter lifted, over the edge of the cliff. My first instinct was to find something to grab onto as it felt like I was going to slide right out of the helicopter into the bush far below. Having found no handle I clenched the sides of my seat and silently repeated, “Camilla, you are a big girl, don’t freak out, you can do this.”
Eventually the nerves in my stomach settled and my fingers let go of their tight grip of the seat and I started snapping away while I took breaks to marvel at the beauty nature has created.
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| Head in the clouds |
I know I often say this but flying above, seeing the outcome of the geological forces that formed the Victoria Falls, you really feel so insignificant. This incredible beauty was completely made by nature, man played no part in it and it is simply beautiful.
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| As Mies van der Rohe says, “God is in the details” |
Early geology of the Falls dates back to 150 million years ago when basalt magma cooled and solidified, cracking or “faulting” in the area of the Victoria Falls. In time, this mass of basalt rock, making up the Batoka Gorge, was covered with Karoo sediments and Kalahari sands.
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| Aerial view of Victoria Falls |
Then 5 million years ago, a geological shift which caused an uplift in central Botswana, blocked the upper Zambezi River and created a paleolake. When this lake overflowed into the Matetsi River, the flowing water started to carry away the deposits that where covering the basalt rock and thereafter started to remove one broken rock after another from within the fault lines.
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| Clouds of spray from the mighty Falls |
Basalt is a very dense, hard rock that resist erosion so instead of eroding the rock grain by grain, the river removes one block at a time. This process has resulted in the rough hewn appearance of the gorge cliffs and face of the waterfall.
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| River boats to cruise the Zambezi |
After circling the Falls we flew over the Zambezi River, away from the Falls and could see people canoeing on the river, river boats floating on the edge and even a crocodile basking in a muddy pool.
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| We flew in a helicopter over Victoria Falls |
Once back at the hotel we packed a small picnic and not wanting to waste a precious minute here, we headed off to The Victoria Falls National Park. At the entrance gate to the Falls from the hotel we were met by the Tourist Police. These people have been hired and trained by the tourism body to escort and protect the tourists when they walk around the streets and bush that they may enjoy the beauty undisturbed from hawkers, bad men and dangerous animals.
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| Entrance gate to falls from the Kingdom Hotel |
Our guide first took us to view the gorge from where an adrenalin seeking person can choose between a myriad of activities. There was an activity called the Flying Fox where one runs out from a platform and leaps into the air with arms outstretched, flying across the gorge like Superman.
Then we also saw people bridge swinging which looked more exhilarating and surprisingly I found myself thinking that I would consider doing that; crazy because as soon as someone suggests an adrenalin activity, I head in the opposite direction. It must have been the beauty of the landscape and the African adventurous air that hooked me.
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| Mom, would you like to go for a bridge swing? |
Another activity that looked more intriguing for me was the river rafters below. You see them approaching the rapids and your heart stops for them but soon after they pop out from the white water intact and continue floating down the gorge with the towering cliffs above them. There are half day trips to a full 5 day trip one can choose from.
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| Walking in the bush with our tourist police |
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| A lush acacia tree and Kalahari Christmas tree blooming pink flowers |
The Nature Reserve boasts a network of paths which leads you to 16 unobstructed viewpoints of the Falls.
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| Welcome to Mosi-oa-Tunya |
We started at number one, The David Livingstone Statue. Livingstone was the first European to witness the majesty of the Victoria Falls.
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| Doctor Livingstone, I presume? |
In November 1855, Livingstone wanted to explore the area the natives called “smoke that thunders” and travelled down the Zambezi River. He remarked that... “no one can imagine the beauty of the view from any thing witnessed in England. It had never been seen before by European eyes; but scenes so lovely must have been gazed upon by angels in their flight.”
We then proceeded to Devil’s Cataract.
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| Devil’s Cataract |
Continuing our walk through all the viewpoints we admired the Main Falls.
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| Main Falls |
We could see Livingstone Island as well as Devil’s Pool where a few people where casually swimming. Even though there is a natural rock wall just below the water and at the very edge of the Falls that stop one from flowing over the perimeter, it must still be a thrill to lie in the pool.
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| Livingstone Island and Devil's Pool |
Unfortunately it is only accessible from the Zambian side. We were told that one has to cross the border and go to the Royal Livingstone Hotel, from there, you will find a footpath and a guide that will take you to the pool. It will involve swimming across the Zambezi and some nerve racking moments as you can’t help but think that only 30m away is a 110m drop down the falls and the only thing preventing you from going over the edge is a 30cm deep natural wall of rock!
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| Magnificent Victoria Falls |
We passed Horseshoe Falls and Rainbow Falls where one leans over the edge you can view a beautiful gentle rainbow arching across the floor of the falls.
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| Rainbow Falls |
At Armchair Falls and Danger Point we enjoyed a light snack before going to have a quick look at the Railway Bridge and return to the exit via the paths in the rainforest.
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| Danger Point |
Ella and I stopped to watch a small troop of vervet monkeys’ jump around the forest floor but suddenly one started coming towards us, it appeared it wanted to chase us so with a little scream and jolt we increased our distance between the monkey and ourselves. We realised though that the monkey didn’t in fact want to play catch-catch with us but instead, he was more interested in the banana his friend had found in the dustbin. Never get in the way of a monkey and his banana!
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| Innocent vervet monkey |
When we reached the end I thought I could have easily started at the first viewpoint and walk my way across the Falls again, listening to the thundering smoke.
In the evening, we had a sunset cruise which is often included in a package to the Victoria Falls. This gave us the opportunity to relax, gently float down the river and enjoy the tranquillity of the Zambezi River.
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| Tranquil cruise on the Zambei River |
While the sun was setting we watched crocodiles sleep on the riverbank and hippos bob in the water. Elephants splashed in the shallow waters of the river, while others scratched themselves on the side of the riverbank.
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| Animals at play in the setting sun |
There is only one phrase that comes to mind which tells you that you are having a fantastic holiday, “this is the life”.
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| Life is beautiful! |
Shearwater Adventures: http://www.shearwatervictoriafalls.com
Wild Horizons: http://www.wildhorizons.co.za
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