Let the Thunder Roll in Victoria Falls

Day 2: Friday, 16^th December 2011: Victoria Falls

Our first view of Mosi-oa-Tunya was from the air and by the end of the day we would have viewed Victoria Falls by air, foot and boat; all good ways to fully appreciate its beauty I would think.

We were shuttled to Elephant Hills, the base of Shearwater Adventures, where we were weighed in (yes, a big shock to all) and then hurriedly escorted to the helicopter that had just landed.

 

Flight of Angels with Shearwater Adventures

 

Everything happened so quickly and before I knew it, I was seated in front, buckled in and the helicopter lifted, over the edge of the cliff. My first instinct was to find something to grab onto as it felt like I was going to slide right out of the helicopter into the bush far below. Having found no handle I clenched the sides of my seat and silently repeated, “Camilla, you are a big girl, don’t freak out, you can do this.”

 

Eventually the nerves in my stomach settled and my fingers let go of their tight grip of the seat and I started snapping away while I took breaks to marvel at the beauty nature has created.

Head in the clouds

I know I often say this but flying above, seeing the outcome of the geological forces that formed the Victoria Falls, you really feel so insignificant. This incredible beauty was completely made by nature, man played no part in it and it is simply beautiful.

As Mies van der Rohe says, “God is in the details”

Early geology of the Falls dates back to 150 million years ago when basalt magma cooled and solidified, cracking or “faulting” in the area of the Victoria Falls. In time, this mass of basalt rock, making up the Batoka Gorge, was covered with Karoo sediments and Kalahari sands.

Aerial view of Victoria Falls

Then 5 million years ago, a geological shift which caused an uplift in central Botswana, blocked the upper Zambezi River and created a paleolake. When this lake overflowed into the Matetsi River, the flowing water started to carry away the deposits that where covering the basalt rock and thereafter started to remove one broken rock after another from within the fault lines.

Clouds of spray from the mighty Falls

 

Basalt is a very dense, hard rock that resist erosion so instead of eroding the rock grain by grain, the river removes one block at a time. This process has resulted in the rough hewn appearance of the gorge cliffs and face of the waterfall.

River boats to cruise the Zambezi

 

After circling the Falls we flew over the Zambezi River, away from the Falls and could see people canoeing on the river, river boats floating on the edge and even a crocodile basking in a muddy pool.

 

We flew in a helicopter over Victoria Falls

Once back at the hotel we packed a small picnic and not wanting to waste a precious minute here, we headed off to The Victoria Falls National Park. At the entrance gate to the Falls from the hotel we were met by the Tourist Police. These people have been hired and trained by the tourism body to escort and protect the tourists when they walk around the streets and bush that they may enjoy the beauty undisturbed from hawkers, bad men and dangerous animals.

Entrance gate to falls from the Kingdom Hotel

 
Our guide first took us to view the gorge from where an adrenalin seeking person can choose between a myriad of activities. There was an activity called the Flying Fox where one runs out from a platform and leaps into the air with arms outstretched, flying across the gorge like Superman. 

Then we also saw people bridge swinging which looked more exhilarating and surprisingly I found myself thinking that I would consider doing that; crazy because as soon as someone suggests an adrenalin activity, I head in the opposite direction. It must have been the beauty of the landscape and the African adventurous air that hooked me.

Mom, would you like to go for a bridge swing?

Another activity that looked more intriguing for me was the river rafters below. You see them approaching the rapids and your heart stops for them but soon after they pop out from the white water intact and continue floating down the gorge with the towering cliffs above them. There are half day trips to a full 5 day trip one can choose from.

Walking in the bush with our tourist police

We continued on towards the nature reserve where our bodyguard left us to enter and explore the 1.7km walk along the Falls.

A lush acacia tree and Kalahari Christmas tree blooming pink flowers

The Nature Reserve boasts a network of paths which leads you to 16 unobstructed viewpoints of the Falls.

Welcome to Mosi-oa-Tunya

We started at number one, The David Livingstone Statue. Livingstone was the first European to witness the majesty of the Victoria Falls.

Doctor Livingstone, I presume?

In November 1855, Livingstone wanted to explore the area the natives called “smoke that thunders” and travelled down the Zambezi River.  He remarked that... “no one can imagine the beauty of the view from any thing witnessed in England. It had never been seen before by European eyes; but scenes so lovely must have been gazed upon by angels in their flight.”

We then proceeded to Devil’s Cataract.

Devil’s Cataract

Continuing our walk through all the viewpoints we admired the Main Falls.

Main Falls

We could see Livingstone Island as well as Devil’s Pool where a few people where casually swimming. Even though there is a natural rock wall just below the water and at the very edge of the Falls that stop one from flowing over the perimeter, it must still be a thrill to lie in the pool.

Livingstone Island and Devil's Pool

Unfortunately it is only accessible from the Zambian side. We were told that one has to cross the border and go to the Royal Livingstone Hotel, from there, you will find a footpath and a guide that will take you to the pool. It will involve swimming across the Zambezi and some nerve racking moments as you can’t help but think that only 30m away is a 110m drop down the falls and the only thing preventing you from going over the edge is a 30cm deep natural wall of rock!

Magnificent Victoria Falls

We passed Horseshoe Falls and Rainbow Falls where one leans over the edge you can view a beautiful gentle rainbow arching across the floor of the falls.

Rainbow Falls

At Armchair Falls and Danger Point we enjoyed a light snack before going to have a quick look at the Railway Bridge and return to the exit via the paths in the rainforest.

Danger Point

Ella and I stopped to watch a small troop of vervet monkeys’ jump around the forest floor but suddenly one started coming towards us, it appeared it wanted to chase us so with a little scream and jolt we increased our distance between the monkey and ourselves. We realised though that the monkey didn’t in fact want to play catch-catch with us but instead, he was more interested in the banana his friend had found in the dustbin. Never get in the way of a monkey and his banana!

Innocent vervet monkey

When we reached the end I thought I could have easily started at the first viewpoint and walk my way across the Falls again, listening to the thundering smoke.

In the evening, we had a sunset cruise which is often included in a package to the Victoria Falls. This gave us the opportunity to relax, gently float down the river and enjoy the tranquillity of the Zambezi River.

Tranquil cruise on the Zambei River

While the sun was setting we watched crocodiles sleep on the riverbank and hippos bob in the water. Elephants splashed in the shallow waters of the river, while others scratched themselves on the side of the riverbank.

Animals at play in the setting sun

There is only one phrase that comes to mind which tells you that you are having a fantastic holiday, “this is the life”.

Life is beautiful!

Handy sites for planning activities at Victoria Falls:
Shearwater Adventures: http://www.shearwatervictoriafalls.com
Wild Horizons: http://www.wildhorizons.co.za

Hello neighbours! A trip to Victoria Falls and Chobe

Day 1: Thursday, 15^th December 2011: Cpt – Jhb – Livingstone – Victoria Falls

There is a feeling of awe as one steps off the plane into another African country. It is hard to describe as it is something that is felt by the heart, in the silent pause that follows the thought as you place your feet on African soil... I am in Africa!

The word is not simple said in an ordinary manner; you say it with emphasis. The word is created at the bottom of your stomach and comes grumbling up and gushing out with excitement and adventure. At the same time your arm sweeps back and forward like a pendulum and your fist punches the air, high up above your head and you shout...

I am in A-fri-ca!

That one word holds so much enthusiasm for our trip to Victoria Falls in Zimbabwe and Chobe in Botswana. This year my parents both joined the Swinging Sixties and decided to celebrate with an adventurous family trip to Victoria Falls. Unfortunately my brother and his family couldn’t join us as five months ago they were blessed with a little baby girl but a family friend, Ella, joined our adventure party of four.

Little 5 month old baby girl Juliette with her granddad

Mom already joined the Sixties Club in September this year and dad, well, actually today. At the airport we surprised him with a delicious chocolate cake made specially for the occasion by Greta, and popped a bottle of sparkling grape juice to celebrate his milestone.

Enjoying Greta’s chocolate cake for a birthday breakfast

Hurriedly we boarded for Johannesburg. Then from Johannesburg we caught another flight to Livingstone in Zambia.

As we flew into Livingstone, a glimpse out the window showed a beautiful canvas of flourishing green grass and trees edged with blue sky decorated with some cumulonimbus clouds.

I distinctly remember, when I stepped off the plane, I was welcomed by the fresh smell of grass after the rains. It felt so earthy and natural, nature at its purest and cleanest. Rudyard Kipling’s words came to my mind, “The first condition of undertaking a foreign country is to smell it!”

So here we are in Africa and we are going to smell it, feel it, taste it and just simply experience it with all our senses.

The queue at passport control took quite a while and this is where one soon realises, in Africa, you will have to adopt patience. Our passports got stamped and into Zambia we entered for our shuttle ride to our hotel in Victoria Falls.

Four travellers happy to be on holiday in Africa

To reach Victoria Falls one has to pass two more border controls, first to exit Zambia and then to enter Zimbabwe. Excitingly this means more stamps in the passports but unexcitedly meant that each time we had to make a mad dash for the offices in the pouring rain. Actually pouring rain is too gentle, it was bucketing down from the sky and the rain water was gushing down the streets, damming the gutters up.

The pouring rain streaming down the streets of Zambia from the bus window

Driving through Zambia to reach Victoria Falls

Our first introduction to our neighbouring countries was beautiful. From the green grass to flowering acacia trees, the unexpected baboon scurrying across the road and the friendly locals that wave to you as you drive past. Yet the most incredible part of it all, which nothing can prepare you for, is your first view of the mighty Victoria Falls as you drive across the border bridge. The gasps of admiration echoed all the way from the front of the bus to the back like a Mexican Wave.

The sheer magnitude of the geology leaves you mesmerized in awe. It is simply, beautiful!

Shortly afterwards we arrived at the Kingdom Hotel, our home for the next five days.

The Kingdom Hotel, Victoria Falls

We strategically chose this hotel for its position. The falls are within walking distance and can be reached within five minutes by foot.

Staying at The Kingdom Hotel can prove to be quite luxurious but also dangerous.

Crocodiles at the hotel can check in too?

Lush green gardens at The Kingdom Hotel

Having arrived late afternoon, we made a cup of coffee and sat on our porch, watching the rain pour down, viewing the spray of the Falls from a clearing in the bush surrounding the hotel. It was as if she was teasing us and inviting us to come explore her beauty.

Relaxation after a day’s travelling

In the evening we enjoyed a lovely buffet dinner at the hotel. Live performers also came to enchant the guests with African beats and moves.

Local entertainers performing traditional dances

Along with the excitement and adventure that comes with Africa, being daring naturally follows. At the buffet table I found a bowl of cooked Mopani worms and thought that my trip to Zimbabwe would not be complete without trying at least one.

So with a deep breath, as if the air around me contained courage I could inhale, I popped the worm into my mouth. Hmmm… interesting, it had a crunchy leathery texture with not much of a taste but I remember the word leather came to mind a lot while chewing. Luckily I had a good glass of local wine I could wash it down with.

Yes; it is a Mopani worm, it is going in my mouth and getting washed down with a glass of local wine

Located in the Ruzawi River Valley, Mashonaland, Mukuyu Winery is the only wine farm to produce and bottle wine in Zimbabwe. We enjoyed a semi dry Colombard which boasted a lively, fruity bouquet.

We went to bed knowing that we had a lovely first day in Victoria Falls and that we had another three more to enjoy.

Let’s see what other adventures and happy memories we will create in the days to come.