Day 6 in Mozambique

16 June 2011, Tofo

The calm, lethargic ocean atmosphere has finally crept into my bones as today was a very relaxed day for me.

While Neil was diving, I went for a walk along the beach towards Praia di Rocha, Tofinho. This bay must be bountiful in fish as many local men were scattered along the shore fishing or scrapping, I presume mussels, off the rocks.

I watched particularly two men far out on the rocks. These rocks are usually covered by water but as it was low tide, there was a field of rock and deep rock pools to search in for delicious ocean fare we tourists would like to buy.

These two men, standing together on one side of a large rock pool, had a large net gathered in their hands. The one man walked across to the other end of the pool, stretching the net across. They then jump into the rock pool and slowly walk ahead to the front of the pool, coming closer and closer together once again. Occasionally you will see the one man disappear under the water and emerge again. I am not sure what they were catching but it was a fascinating method to watch.

The whole time I was thinking that if I had a rod now I would try to catch my own fish and then braai it on the beach; my ultimate Mozambique fantasy. But for now i think i should just settle for buying the catch of the day in the market later afternoon.

I didn’t realise how long I was watching the fishing activity for and by then Tofinho looked rather far away so instead of heading towards the little bay, I clambered up the sand dune, spread out my towel, sat down and read a little. I say little as it is so easy, while sitting in the warm sun, to be distracted by the view of Tofo and the ocean.

In the afternoon we took a walk to the only ATM which is outside town. We were told it is a 30 minute walk but it felt like we were walking for hours. The further away from the sea we walked, the hotter it seemed to get and the cool breeze disappeared. Nevertheless, we saw many interesting and lovely things along the way.

I just love the way the people have woven the palms together to make their huts. It has such a nice knitted pattern and the way the grass huts are grouped together under the coconut trees, really makes you feel like you are in Africa (which we are).

There were little children running home from school and we actually passed the local primary school. Well walking past we could hear children singing which was quite puzzling as we saw some running home from school. Hmm?

We passed what seemed to be a hardware store as it was selling water pipes, cement bricks and even cement wash basins.

And the local mechanic shop.

Men were hard at work in a carpentry workshop, making chairs and tables from beautiful rich red mahogany wood.

After we had successfully drew money we had to head back to Tofo. Knowing the heavy walk ahead of us, my feet already sore and my shoulders burnt from the sun, I decided to, for the first time in my life, thumb a lift. As soon as I heard the first car coming up the road, I stuck out my thumb and to our surprise it stopped.  We got a ride back to town with a lovely elderly couple who live in Tofinho. I guess they used to crazy tourists looking for a lift.

Once back in town, our grumbling stomachs led us to the restaurant next to the dive centre where I had the most delicious stuffed crabs. It even had chillies in it and I enjoyed it which is strange as I am a chilli pansy.

Later in the evening we went for a nice sunset walk along the beach towards Bamboozi. It was a little windy but the beautiful sunset makes it all worthwhile.

Our evening was rather quiet and relaxed. We enjoyed a calm evening at Fahtima’s restaurant playing Rummikub and enjoying another local dish of calamari. So that is prawns, crabs and calamari all ticked off my list of local foods to eat. I mean, where can you eat a meal of calamari or prawns, for less than R40? Only in Mozambique!