Living the life of a Roman at the Baths of Caracalla in Rome

29th of August to 2nd of September 2013

Hidden behind the hustle and bustle of the Colosseum, the Baths of Caracalla can be found at the foot of the Aventine Hill, offering one the opportunity to explore Roman antiquity in tranquility.

The Baths of Caracalla were built by the Emperor Caracalla and completed in 217 AD. It is one of the largest and well preserved thermal complexes of antiquity.

  

The Baths are also known as the Thermae Antoninianae as the emperor’s real name was Marcus Aurelius Antoninus but nicknamed Caracalla for a Gallic tunic he used to wear. Caracalla is infamous for killing his more popular brother and was known for offering citizenship to all free inhabitants of the Roman Empire, mainly to increase the income from taxes.

The baths in Rome played a vital role in maintaining the cleanliness and health of its citizens but more importantly, it was a place where Romans came to socialise and relax. The Baths of Caracalla were more like a multi-functional leisure center and housed not only pools but gymnasiums, libraries, gardens, art galleries, shops, restaurants and even brothels.

The thermal complex covered an area of 11 hectares and could allow 6 000 bathers to constantly come and go freely. 

A combination of neglect, looting and an earthquake has led to the ruin of this great architectural structure. However, wandering through the remains, the sheer size and magnificence of these ruins do not seize to impress.

It took 9 000  workers , who were employed daily for approximately five years, to create only a platform of about 337 x 328 m, let alone the whole thermal complex.

One can only imagine the rich interior that ornamented the floors and vaults of the Baths of Caracalla when the baths existed in their full glory.

The floors were made from oriental coloured marbles in beautiful patterns. The floors on the upper levels of the Baths were decorated with thiasus marine motifs with Nereids, tritons and dolphins, cupids and sea monsters.

Although elaborately decorated with mosaics, the 300 m long floor on the upper level of the Baths collapsed. Large fragments of the floor can be seen leaning against the walls of the two Palaestrae.

The walls were decorated with glass paste mosaics and marbles, and with stucco paintings. Hundreds of statues and fountains of mythical personas were placed in the rooms, halls and gardens, in every niche possible, elaborately ornamenting the Baths. Some of the statues were made of bronze while most of them were painted marble.

Ornamental decoration on the walls of the Baths of Caracalla.

While walking around the thermal complex, it is impossible for one’s imagination to not drift off back into time. I could see the Romans, after their athletic exercising, sauntering towards the steam baths, to prepare their bodies for the hot baths in the calidarium, a hall covered by a dome with pools.

In the calidarium, a hypocaustum system (with hot air under the floor) was used to heat the hall.

Thereafter, the bathers would pass into the tepidarium for a lukewarm bath. Followed by a bath in the cold frigidarium; the largest and coolest indoor area, covered by a three-cross vault. Lastly, the ritual was completed with a swim in the natatio, an open air swimming pool before returning to the dressing rooms.

I could only wish that I was a Roman in 217 AD, enjoying a spa day at the Baths of Caracalla.

While getting lost in the grandeur of the thermal complex one should not forget to take note of what it took to make the Baths function. Imagine the aqueducts needed to bring large volumes of water to the Baths, as well as the colossal thermal complex, hidden underground, where a series of storage rooms for wood, furnaces and cauldrons existed, along with a network of lead pipes of the water system.

Today, the Baths of Caracalla serve as a theater and numerous summer evening operas and ballets can be enjoyed against this majestic backdrop.

Leaving the Baths of Caracalla I could only imagine that the life of a Roman was a dream at the Baths of Caracalla.

Ciao bella Roma

29^th of August to 2^nd of September 2013

After traveling south through the countryside of Lazio we had arrived at our final stop of our Italy 2013 tour.

We stayed at a convent called La Casa di Accoglienza Presentazione in Via San Agatone Papa,  a 15 minute walk or an easy 5 minute bus ride down Via Gregorio VII, to St. Peter’s Basilica, making our journey along the ancient pilgrim route of via Francigena more symbolic.

A charming garden welcomed us to La Casa di Accoglienza Presentazione

After having spent six weeks in small towns and villages, Rome sure was a shock to the system. It was an explosion of tourists, traffic and activity and one has to exercise much patience and tolerance to view the main sights. 

However, when you wandering around and find a quiet street or spot within the mayhem, you take a deep breath, let out a sigh of relief and think to yourself, I am in bella Roma where life is beautiful. Thereafter you don’t mind to share Rome with the other million tourists.

A quiet spot out of the hustle and bustle of Rome. This is the courtyard where the movie ‘Rome with Love’ was filmed.

An additional personal observation of Rome is that it is BIG. The sights may seem within walking distance from each other on the map but in actual fact they are not. Therefore I would highly recommend touring Rome on a hop-on hop-off bus. It is a most enjoyable way to view the city. You save a great amount of exhaustion and frustration, especially in the heat of summer, and you save time which will allow you to linger a little longer and indulge in an ice cream when you are admiring Rome’s great beauty. However, be warned though, walking will still be required from the various bus stops to the monuments therefore pack comfortable walking shoes, a hat, sunscreen and a bottle of water which you will be able to refill at fountains along the way.

The bus companies offer a one, two or three day pass and, for an additional fee, includes all other modes of transport within the city like the busses, trains and metro.

We bought a 3 day pass which included all other modes of transport for €33 as it was more economical for our stay in Rome. Furthermore, it enabled us to enjoy the city at a leisurely pace and not rush to try squeeze in all the sights in one day. We could take our time to admire each one for its own unique beauty and leave a little more for the next day.

The tour bus company we bought our tickets from is called Roma Cristiana which also offers free passage for children under the age of 10 years. A 24 hour ticket costs €20 and a 48 hour ticket costs €22.

During the course of our stay in Rome we explored parts of the city we had never seen before and also revisited some favourite attractions along our way. Therefore the Rome I will present to you in the next few blogposts may not be the 'tourist' Rome, but rather the Costa family Rome.

Costa family stop 1: A quick walk to St. Peter’s in the Vatican

First stop on the Family Costa tour of Rome, St. Peter’s

The evening we arrived we decided to take a stroll before dinner to St. Peter’s which was most rewarding as the tourists seemed to have dissipated and we could enjoy the peace and tranquillity of the square.

St. Peter’s Basilica

St. Peter’s basilica is set within a large circular square, surrounded by two parallel rows of white columns, adorned with statues of the saints, stretching out from either side of the basilica. The columns never meet to complete a full circle but rather leave an opening at the far end which enhances the monumental approach to St. Peter’s as one arrives from Castel Sant' Angelo.

Castel Sant' Angelo

As one stands in the square admiring the size and majesty of the architecture, you can’t help but feel that the columns are two giant arms stretching out from the church, enfolding you in a warm embrace and inviting you to explore the mysteries of history, art and culture lying within.

Statues adorning the columns of St. Peter’s square

Costa family stop 2: Santa Maria Maggiore and San Giovanni in Laterano

Having missed a visit to the catacombs of Rome on her previous trip, mom was very eager to include it in our itinerary this year. Therefore we hopped on the bus Roma Cristiana and started our journey through Rome to San Giovanni in Laterano from where we could catch a city bus to the catacombs.

Before one reaches San Giovanni in Laterano, you will first pass a church called Santa Maria Maggiore. During Easter celebrations the Pope will hold a procession from Santa Maria Maggiore all the way to the top of via Merulana and to San Giovanni in Laterano.

Santa Maria Maggiore is one of the four patriarchal basilicas of Rome

According to legend, Santa Maria Maggiore was constructed by the orders of Pope Liberius who had a dream in which the Virgin Mary appeared to him. The Virgin Mary also appeared to the nobleman Giovanni Patrizio on the same night of the 4^th of August, 352. 

In their dreams the Virgin Mary instructed the construction of a church on the Esquiline Hill. That night, a miraculous snowfall outlined the floor of the church on the hill and on that spot the church was built. The legend is commemorated every year on the 5^th of August by dropping white rose petals from the dome during mass.

The front façade of the cathedral San Giovanni in Laterano. Entering the cathedral one walks over a marble design of the dove of peace, a symbol of Easter, and immediately a sense a peace washes over you.

Approaching San Giovanni in Laterano, I was oblivious to the awe-striking beauty that would soon take my breath away.

Beautiful art awaits you in San Giovanni in Laterano

The cathedral’s beauty will mesmerise you; from the decorative marble floor to the flawless architecture, beautiful frescoes and colossal sculptures of the twelve apostles, standing proudly over the nave.

Tall statues of the apostles proudly adorn the nave of the church

Costa family stop 3: Feeling chilly in the Catacombs of Saint Callisto

From San Giovanni in Laterano we had to catch a city bus to reach the catacombs of Rome. In a foreign city one always climbs onto the bus with a little uncertainty that it is the correct bus, going in the direction you want to go. However, when we saw a nun with a group of tourists also taking the same bus, we thought, well, this must be the right bus, let’s follow the nun, we can’t go wrong. Luckily, she was also going in the same direction and kindly took all the tourists on the bus under her wing and lead us safely to the Catacombs of Saint Callisto.

Entrance to the Catacombs of Saint Callisto

The Catacombs of Saint Callisto are the oldest catacombs in Rome, aged between the middle of the 2^nd century till the 5^th century. They were used to bury Christians and consist of four levels of graves, reaching a total depth of 20 m. The temperature inside the catacombs is 15°C.

Lovely gardens surround the catacombs where one can wander around before or after your tour

Visitors to the tombs can embark on a guided tour through the first two levels of the catacombs which reach a depth of 11 m. The third and fourth levels are still in process of been excavated and at the moment are too dangerous to enter.

I have posted some images I found on the Internet to illustrate the tour as it is forbidden to take photos within the catacombs. Therefore, please forgive me that they are not my own photographs.

The catacombs of Saint Callisto (Source: Internet)

The guide provided many interesting facts along the way. It may seem that one is simply looking at rectangular shaped holes dug out in the walls of ground but in actual fact one is walking through a graveyard, deep underground, and looking at the places where those, who believed in God, have been laid to rest. It is quite an eerie thought, especially when it is possible to view the remains of some bones in one of the tombs.

Christians, children, families, popes, martyrs, even slaves who were given the opportunity to a Christian burial within the family tombs of those they served were all buried within the catacombs. (Source: Internet)

The tombs which had a skylight meant that someone important was buried within the tomb and usually the tombs of the popes or lords had a passageway of light beaming down into the tomb.

Another interesting fact that I learnt was that the names on the grave stones are written in Greek, which was the written language of the church until the 4^th century. Thereafter the church began to write in Latin. There is a beautiful poem written in Latin carved in stone by the grave of Pope Sixtos II.

The grave of Pope Sixtos II who was killed within the tomb while saying mass and who died a martyr for his faith (Source: Internet)

Making our way through the web of passageways in the catacombs, we came to the tomb of Saint Cecelia who had been condemned to death for believing in one God. She is the patron saint of music as it is said that she heard heavenly music in her heart when she was married. 

Her husband converted to the faith after seeing an angel praying at her side. She had told him that he would only be able to see the angel if he believed in one God. Before Cecilia was condemned and martyred, she converted about 400 persons through her preaching.

At the tomb of Saint Cecelia is a beautiful sculpture of the young saint, lying on her side, her eyes are blindfolded, her one hand has three fingers pointing outwards symbolising the Holy Trinity and her other hand has an extended index finger symbolising that she believes in one God.

The sculpture of Saint Cecilia was carved and donated by an artist whose wife died at an early age and who shared the saint’s name (Source: Internet)

Within the tomb of Saint Cecelia one can even view original Byzantine frescoes which have been well preserved. The Catacombs of Saint Callisto are one of the only catacombs in Rome which have visible, original frescoes that have never been restored.

Byzantine frescoes in the burial chamber of Saint Cecelia (Source: Internet)

Costa family stop 4: The Colosseum, majesty and might of the Roman Empire

The Colosseum, also known as the Flavian Amphitheatre, was built nearly 2 000 years ago.

The Colosseum of Rome needs little introduction. It was the largest amphitheatre of the Roman Empire and is still the largest amphitheatre in the world today, well known as a great work of Roman architecture and engineering.

The Colosseum viewed from the Arch of Titus

We walked around the Colosseum, stepping back in time and immersing ourselves in the history of the great Roman Empire, admiring the triumphal arches, ancient ruins and churches.

The Arch of Titus, constructed in c. 82 AD

We walked around the Palatine Hill and viewed the remains of the houses were once Augustus, Cicero and Marc Antony lived and enjoyed beautiful city views, although our views were slightly different to what theirs would have been.

Viewing The Forum, the centre of life in Imperial Rome from the Palatine Hill

It is believed that on the Palatine Hill, the twins Romulus and Remus were found in the Lupercal Cave by their four-legged mother who raised them. Subsequently, this is where Romulus decided to build the city and therefore, upon this hill, the Roman Empire began.

Archaeological evidence has been discovered that indicates that the Palatine Hill was inhabited as long ago as the 10^th century BC.

Walking along, we caught a glimpse of the church of San Sebastian, dedicated to the Roman soldier who died a martyr. However, a wedding was taking place and we couldn’t venture further to see more of the church but we amusingly watched the fashionista wedding guests arriving and stepping out of their cars in good cheer.

The gates to the church of San Sebastian

A stone throw away from the Colosseum, between the Aventine and Palatine Hiils, we found Circus Maximus, the ancient Roman chariot racing stadium that was depecited in the epic movie Ben-Hur.

Chariot races were one of the Roman’s most popular forms of entertainment. The last race at the Circus Maximus is said to have been held in 549 AD, almost a millennium after the first races were held at this site.

Today Circus Maximus is a public park, where only the layout of the original circus can be seen

Costa family stop 5: The dominating Monument of Vittorio Emanuele II

The tour busses will make a stop at Piazza Venezia where one can hop off to go view the Trevi Fountain and Spanish Steps.

However, before one races off to the famous sites of Rome, don’t forget to take the time to view the Monument of Vittorio Emanuele II. It is a commanding monument, proudly standing tall with two statues of the goddess Victoria riding on quadrigas, ancient Roman chariots.

Il Vittoriano, as it is commonly known, is a monument built in honour of Victor Emmanuel, the first king of a unified Italy

Costa family stop 6: Trevi Fountain and ensuring a safe return to Rome

A visit to Rome is not complete if one does not toss a coin into the Trevi Fountain. Not wanting to test fate or legend, we fought the crowds and tossed a coin into the fountain, safeguarding a return to the eternal city.

The Trevi Fountain

The monumental Baroque fountain is truly a masterpiece. Neptune, god of the sea, is riding a chariot in the shape of a shell and is pulled by two sea horses, each guided by a Triton. The two sea horses symbolise the shifting moods of the sea and therefore the one horse is calm and obedient while the other is more restive.

Costa family stop 7: Eating chestnuts on the Spanish Steps

The Spanish Steps in Piazza di Spagna

A short walk from the Trevi Fountain led us to Piazza di Spagna and the famous Spanish Steps. Piazza di Spagna is connected to a french church called Trinità dei Monti, on top of the hill via a long staircase, the Scalinata della Trinità dei Monti, or better known as the Spanish Steps.

We indulged ourselves in roasted chestnuts, found a quiet spot on the Spanish Steps and happily sat eating our chestnuts

With all the people crowding around the Spanish Steps I almost missed the Fontana della Barcaccia. It is a fountain designed by Gian Lorenzo Bernini and was inspired by the discovery of a small boat stranded here after the flooding of the Tiber River in 1598.

Fontana della Barcaccia by the Spanish Steps

Costa family stop 8: A pitstop

When I mentioned at the start of my post ‘Ciao bella Roma’ that Rome is BIG, I was not exaggerating, as the length of my post has clearly illustrated. There is so much more of our discoveries in Rome to show you and tell you about.

In Rome, history, art and culture are hiding in every corner for you to discover. All you need to do is look around you

However, for now, we shall stop a moment in time and admire the beautiful sunset over the River Tevere and romantically drift away and dream about la bella città, Roma.

Sunset over the River Tevere

Useful information

Place to stay:  La Casa di Accoglienza Presentazione in Via San Agatone Papa,         
                            16 (casa.presentazione@tiscali.it)

City tour bus: Roma Cristiana (www.operaromanapellegrinaggi.org)

Will you be a City Changer on Monday, 7th of October 2013?

I am sure you are wondering what the significance of the 7th of October is and once I inform you, I am sure, when you discover the importance thereof; you will be inspired to get involved.

What is happening on the 7^th of October 2013?

World Habitat Day!

The United Nations has nominated the first Monday of October each year as World Habitat Day.

What is World Habitat Day?

It is a day dedicated to reflect on the state of our towns and cities and the basic right to adequate shelter for all. Furthermore, it is intended to remind the world that we have a responsibility to shape the future of our cities and towns.

What is the theme of World Habitat Day 2013?

Urban Mobility!

The access to goods and services is an important aspect of an efficiently functioning city or town. The more accessible a city or town is, the greater the encouragement to shift towards more sustainable modes of transport.

However, urban mobility involves more of a mind shift than simply encouraging people out of their cars and onto trains, buses, bicycle routes and sidewalks. Urban planning and design decisions need to center around bringing people and places together, by creating cities that focus on accessibility and optimal urban densities, rather than increasing the length of urban transport infrastructure.

What is a City Changer?

I’m a City Changer is a global movement to share individual, corporate and public initiatives that improve our cities around the world.

The campaign is promoted by UN-Habitat through the World Urban Campaign.

The aim of the campaign is to create awareness among citizens of the urban issues affecting their cities and towns to achieve a better environment.

Why be a City Changer?

I can give you 10 reasons why you should be a City Changer…

• World population is growing: global population will reach 60% by 2030.
• 21^st century challenges: rapid urbanization, globalization and climate change are challenges present in the cities as over half of the world’s population lives in cities.
• No slums: 1 billion of the global population lives in sub-standard housing. By 2020, an estimated 889 million urbanites will reside in informal settlements.
• Climate change: urbanisation places tremendous pressure on the world’s limited resources.
•   For fewer emissions: Cities are responsible for 70% of total emissions of our planet.
•  Economic opportunity: A well-planned city offers businesses a competitive advantage and disadvantaged people have the opportunity to be lifted out of poverty.
•  Cities are the future of the younger generation: In many cities around the globe, more than 50% of the inhabitants are under the age of 24.
• Cities are creative and productive: Cities are the engines of wealth creation and innovation. The 40 largest urban mega-regions account for 66% of global economic activity and 85% of all technological and scientific innovation.
• We love cities: Cities are our community, where we relate to each other and where life goes on.
•  It is the time to change: We have a social responsibility to be part of the change to ensure a better future life for all.

How can I celebrate World Habitat Day and make a change?

I’m a City Changer Campaign aims to foster sustainable urban development to achieve better cities and a better life through core components which offer opportunities to be part of the change:

A resilient city: Urbanisation can only be sustainable if it is adaptable to future demands and is resilient to the consequences of climate change.

A green city: Buildings alone account for 30% of greenhouse gas emissions. The construction of buildings needs to be environmentally sound and carbon efficient.

A safe and healthy city: We need to create a highly livable environment in order to capitalise on a city’s potential and drive sustainable solutions to problems concerning the economy, climate change, food security and more.

An inclusive city: In order to create a shared, sustainable urban future we need to build a socially inclusive city and develop social equity.

A productive city: If we make cities more efficient then we can ensure more economic opportunities for citizens. Economically sustainable development is a pillar of creating a healthy, livable and sustainable city.

So why don’t you…

Raise awareness in your city about World Habitat Day and what it signifies.

Organise a World Habitat Day awareness event at work or with a group of friends.

Get involved and engage with the citizens of your city.

Make use of public transport to travel to and from work.

Leave your car parked in the garage and use a bicycle to travel around the city.

Read this month's journey through words...